Honeycomb Storage Wall - 235 mm × 235 mm, and 220 mm × 220 mm - Adjusted to maximize the usage of print beds from the AnkerMake M5 and M5C printers

Honeycomb models adjusted for 235 mm × 235 mm, and 220 mm × 220 mm print beds (AnkerMake M5 and M5C)
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updated January 15, 2024

Description

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The files here maximize the usage of the print bed from the AnkerMake M5 (235 mm × 235 mm)) and M5C (220 mm × 220 mm) printers to print the honeycomb storage wall. 

New to the honeycomb storage wall? Look Honeycomb storage wall by RostaP, and the remixes within to understand the project, and how the project is being developed.

The base file for the M5 prints a 9 × 11 hexagon tessellation, with the flat side at the top portion of the bed.

The base file for the M5C prints an 8 × 10 hexagon tessellation, with the flat side at the top portion of the bed.

I also added extra files with uneven edges (see the units in yellow colour, in the picture below) to facilitate building a wall with the files available here. These fit the purpose of maximizing the dimensions of the bed but note that allowing uneven edges in a 235 mm by 235 mm bed size excludes a column of hexagons.

The dimensions in the folders correspond to a slightly reduced size (2-3 mm on each side) to allow for the printing of the skirt. 

I used an Ankermake M5 printer with a 0.4 mm nozzle, with PETG and PLA+ filaments. Overall, the most important settings I followed were:

  • Layer height: 0.25 mm 
  • Vertical perimeters: 3
  • Top and bottom solid layers: 3 or 4
  • Perimeter generator: Arachne
  • Infill percentage: 5%
  • Fill pattern: Gyroid
  • Top and bottom fill: Concentric
  • Skirt loops: 2
  • Distance from brim/object: 0.5 mm
  • Brim type: No brim

Using these parameters and a 250 mm/s printing speed, it took me 2h 50 min, and ~ 95g of PETG to obtain the basic 9 × 11 hexagonal tessellation. One could increase the speed while increasing temperature (and maybe extrusion flow) to obtain a faster print without compromising strength.

A few recommendations:

  1. Make sure your printer is well-calibrated, especially concerning e-steps and pressure advances. When these settings are not tuned properly, there will be little bulges at the corners of some hexagons, which will make joining them together more laborious.
  2. Ensure that your filament has been actively dried (through active heat, for instance), especially if you are using PETG or another more hygroscopic material. The brand-new filament can still have wetness issues.
  3. If you are printing a honeycomb wall, I encourage you to spend a little time pre-assembling the files using basic 3D software (such as Windows 3D builder; see the example below), or manually assembling 2D-printed versions of the files. This will ensure that all files match with your objective, and will mitigate chances of wasted resources.
  4. Very important: when planning and installing your wall, do not forget that the thicker part of the hexagon walls faces you so that the clips lock in! The 3D files show the thinner side facing you for ease of printing. Being constantly aware of this is especially relevant for those planning to create an irregular honeycomb wall (i.e., that deviates from a rectangular, square or other mirrored shape).

This is the first remix I upload here! 

Please do not hesitate to leave me your comments and requests!

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Model origin

The author remixed this model.

Differences of the remix compared to the original

The files here adapt the honeycomb storage wall to maximize the usage of the print bed from the AnkerMake M5 (235 mm × 235 mm) and M5C (220 mm × 220 mm) printers.

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