First of all, huge shoutout to @KalleKnall for this wonderful design; I'm very impressed by the design and attention to detail. It's my first time adding a Raspberry pi to my printing setup and it was nice to find this great enclosure to house all the electronics neatly in one place.
Please see the section below “Differences of the remix compared to the original" for more details about the changes I made to the original design. The biggest change I made was to increase the overall height of the enclosure. I wanted the enclosure and the power supply to have similar heights for improved visual symmetry. I also wanted the brace not to stick up taller than the enclosure.
A few random notes:
- My printer is a Prusa MK3s+ and I am using a Raspberry 3 model B, I can confirm that this build works for me. (see pictures)
- I had to use a drill to increase the bolt holes on the enclosure (and even on the raspberry pi itself) in order to fit M3 bolts. It was a very tight fit otherwise.
- Because of the increased height, I realized that the Z-axis motor cables would not reach the Einsy board so I looked online and found the parts I needed to create motor extension cables. These use “Molex SL connector”, here are the digikey parts that I ordered:
- I liked the idea of the cable management interior walls in the original design but I felt that those walls consumed some interior volume that could be used for the cables themselves. So I removed the walls and made some “tunnels” that can be used to run zipties to tidy the cables.
- I wanted the brace, enclosure and cover to have the same black and orange theme as my original printer. I contacted Prusa customer support and they confirmed that the printed materials on the printer use the following filaments (I used those on my build as you can see in the pictures):
- Prusament PETG Prusa Orange (link)
- Prusament PETG Jet Black (link)
- I printed the cover in two different colors. The bottom half of the cover is in orange and the top color is in black. This is so when the cover is attached to the enclosure, it looks like the enclosure has one solid black color. Please see pictures for clarification.
- The voltage regulator that I used was this one: (link)
- For the prints, I believe I used “0.2mm quality” setting with 20% infill, no supports.
I learned a TON with this build:
- First time tinkering with a raspberry pi in 3D printing; I am very impressed with the added capability.
- First time printing with PETG (always used PLA instead). I used a textured steel bed sheet for the first time and had great luck with it.
- First time remixing an existing design via an step file (forced me to learn a lot more about CAD design).
The author remixed this model.
Differences of the remix compared to the original
- Increased the height of the case by 25.818mm for two reasons: I didn't want the frame brace to stick up taller than the case and I also wanted the case to be the same height as the power supply for better symmetry. Caution: power cables and 2 of the motor cables will need to be extended to accommodate this height addition. Please see description for more details about how I did this.
- Removed the wall where the 5V regulator was meant to be installed and mounted regulator to the same plate as the other electronics.
- Removed the cable management interior walls and created ziptie holders instead; I felt this bought me some extra interior volume to route the wires and helped “pull” the cables towards the corners of the case.
- Because of the height increase and new placement of the voltage regulator, I had to relocate two of the screw locations that connect between the case and the brace.
- Reduced the width of the ‘lip’ that slides into the printer's extrusion, it was a bit difficult to fit the original brace into the slots in the aluminum extrusion.
- Switched to M4 bolts where the brace attaches to the bottom of the printer.
- Improved honeycomb pattern, increased it's size at the back and also aligned it better on the cover (it was not perfectly aligned with the horizon).
- Removed the “removable” bottom (or “sliding door”).
- Improved location of the hole for the Einsy reset switch and increased its diameter by 1mm, it's now more centered around the button.
- Improved location of the hole for the Einsy USB port, it's more centered around the USB port.
- Made the style of the bottom right cable slot more similar to the other cable holes (i.e. added a lip that sticks out from the cover)