Handle for an upcycled bicycle quick release skewer. What you do with the business end is up to you.
Named after a former coworker and bike mechanic who liked my 3D printed handles for pokey spokes but wanted something substantial. Big handle, big pick. Also known as “The Big Stabby” when the QR skewer is sharpened.
To be honest I rarely use the pick version, (red handle in the photos) it's far too big for my use, but Trevor loved his.
The version I do use is the version with the rounded and polished end. (with the blue handle in the photos) Combined with some isopropyl alcohol, I use this to get under ESI silicone grips and make their removal very easy. Process is as follows:
The blunt tip keeps it from poking through the grip, and the high polish keeps it from scratching the bars. I load the cut QR skewer in a drill and shape it on a belt sander, then use progressive grades of wet sandpaper to bring it to at least 1000 grit before polishing on a buffer wheel. Been using this setup (originally with a wood handle) for years now.
Material, layer height, infill -- pretty much whatever you want. The M5 thread of a QR skewer is a 0.8mm pitch and usually you want at least ¼ the pitch for printed threads, but in this case if the fit is sloppy, it will just require more torque to thread it on, which means it'll be nice and secure
In terms of shells - due to its size it'll be pretty strong in just about any amount. I might have upped it from two to three, maybe four shells, although that's likely overkill.
Pro tip: external cam quick release skewers are generally worthless as quick releases, so those are perfect as donors.
The QR axle is not included. Supply your own, and cut off the quick release end of the head so the threads remain intact. I usually use rear skewers as they are longer, but if you only need a short pokey bit then a front skewer would work. The fit on the handle threads will be tight so I usually hold the skewer in a vise when I thread on the handle. You might want to mark the skewer at 35mm from the threaded end as you'll know that's when it's fully inserted - that's the depth of the threaded hole. If it gets too hard to tighten before you reach 35mm depth, then you're probably fine, especially as a pick.
If you use the version with the set screw, no need to clean up the threads, you should be able to get an M5 screw started and the threads should act like their own threadlocker. Just tighten the set screw down until it's snug, overtightening it could strip the “threads”.
You can also file a flat on the QR centered 23mm from the threaded end, that'll line up with the set screw hole once it's threaded in to the 35mm depth. Once you're close to the 35mm depth, look through the set screw hole until you see the flat you made, and then install the set screw there.
I was planning on shooting a video with how to do all of this and how to use it with ESI grips, but crashed on the bike and hurt my shoulder. Maybe once I'm all fixed up I'll get to that. No promises.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.