This is a remix of:
Fan Mount: https://www.printables.com/model/523356-tronxy-crux-1-fanduct
BL-Touch Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5790611
This setup is used with the shortened heatbreak and hotend that result form upgrading the Crux 1 from PTFE tube to a BI-Metal Heat break.
Parts used in the hotend upgrade:
Blower Fan upgrade (stock is 0.05a, replacements are 0.10a; twice the performance): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB7DLMM
Hotend Fan Upgrade (same reason as blower fan): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0757RPCN9
Bi-Metal Heat break (TC4, 27.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6P6P83S
60W Heater & 300C Thermister: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9CV86N7
Solid Copper High Temp Heat Block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NVTJM4S
Capricorn PTFE tube (because why not, you still need some): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GM6W972
M3 Screw Set: https://www.amazon.com/VIGRUE-570PCS-Stainless-Assortment-Machine/dp/B08H24W42K
Capture Nut Assortment: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2HGNYLX
The M3 capture nut gets inserted into the hold in the arm to secure the bottom corner of the hotend cooler fan. I like to screw on the screw to the capture nut, then heat it using a heat gun (hold screw with pliers), then insert into the hole. This prevents the gunk buildup that occurs when doing the install using soldering iron. Let cool and remove screw.
(or sod all of that and just string a twist/zip/cable tie through the hole and be done with it)
Parts used in the BL-Touch Upgrade for a Klipper unit (I do not know/use Marlin for this):
M3 Screw Set from Fan Upgrade
Official BL-Touch Unit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093788GPB
The modificationto the mount here is adjusted to have the bottom rest on the fan mount and sized so the sensor should end up 1mm above the nozzle and a 1-2mm below when deployed. I also increased the size and thickness of the sensor mounting area to remove any play from motion and better hold the sensor vertical. I modified only the first fan mount since having a no-fingers-in-the-fan grill was still desirable to me.
This one is a bit more of a pain in the rear, since you have to figure out where to connect the wires, as well as build cable extensions to get from the extrude to the board.
Thankfully, New Crux1's that are shipping out have a very clearly marked board for the connections for power for the sensor (both 24V and 5V available for the bl-touch or the tronxy sensor) and you will reuse the Z-stop for the sensor bit.
The difficulties are:
TL;DR The PWM pin is PB10
Klipper BLTouch Section:
[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PC13
control_pin: PB10
probe_with_touch_mode: True
Printer Brand:
ELEGOO
Printer:
ELEGOO NEPTUNE 3 Pro
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2mm
Infill:
15-20%
Filament: Creality PETG
CR-Black
Notes:
Edit: Updated with V2 Fan Duct. Should now slice correctly in any slicer. Tested in Cura and PrusaSlicer
I am still new to 3d Printing, so the best I can do right now it cut up an existing stl in a program like SelfCAD and make the needed adjustments. I did my best correcting any mesh issues, but only Cura seems to process and slice the file correctly. Messing with stl files that already have holes makes reattaching the mesh correctly very difficult for the CAD software.
Recommend to print this in PETG as it will be up close and personal with the hotend
Category: 3D Printer Parts
The author remixed this model. Imported from Thingiverse.
Adapted the size of the Fan Duct to work with the readily available Bi-metal 27.5mm heat break