Sega System 16B & Multi-Pi Mount in Jasen's Konami Case

I've been looking for a case for my Sega System16b board for a while and missed some opportunities and then found out that Jasen's Konami Case could actually fit the bill.  After getting some internal dimensions from a fellow arcade enthusiast (Clint), I took a chance and bought one.  Everything does fit, including the Multi and a Raspberry Pi internally.  I have BladeZX's Multi-pi and had to mount that externally.  Let me know if you have any questions or issues.

*Note: PCB Feet File is for support of the Jamma adapter PCB.  the height should be flush to the surface in the Konami case. 

Items needed

For System 16b board PCB offset mounts
4 - m3x10mm screw and nut to mount the feet to PCB. You will reuse the original 4 screws from the Konami case to secure the PCB to the case itself.
**If all you want to do is just mount your PCB with or without your multi, this is all you'll need plus printing of the offset feet; just follow Step 1 but you can screw it down. If you have something connected to the pin headers on the Multi, it has to be very low profile like the modified IDC cable shown below.

For Multi-pi external case
4 - m3x12mm screws and Threaded Heat inserts (for cover screw down)
1 - m3x12mm screw and Locknut (to secure the Multi-pi to the Konami lid
1 - m3 fender washer (large enough to cover the circle opening in the Konami lid)
1 - 10pin IDC cable (I used 60cm for ease of use), but you will need to remove the top cable retention to make it fit inside the case; Dupont connectors won't fit. 

All other cabling for the Multi-Pi will be used, but it's possible your cabling may be too short, so be ready to make some new ones.
1 - 10-pin Right angle 2.54 double row pin header.  (you will be replacing the connector on the Multi-pi, unless you want to do a direct wire route).
2 - 5-pin Dupont M-F jumper wires (you'll see why if you install the pin header above)

For Internal Pi-mount
2 - m2.5x12mm screw and nut (2mm is too small and 3mm is too big for the PCB opening)
Print this case for the Pi Zero WH.  It “should” work fine with any other Pi Zero's since it was mostly about having the openings for the USB.  I remixed it to house M3 nuts for easier assembly.  You need this case due to the way I locked down the Pi in the Pi Mount Print.
Raspberry Pi Zero WH case Remix by RayneX | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Install Instructions

1. Install the offset PCB mount onto the main PCB using the 4 m3 screws and nut.  don't tighten too tight; just enough to position them over the 4 posts for which they will slide over.  Do a test fit, but don't screw down yet.
2. Tighten down the partially loose M3 screws on the PCB, then remove the board.
3. Now install the Pi Mount using the m2.5 screws and nut. (you may need to push the capacitors back a little, but not much)
   
    
4. Now slide in your assembled Pi Zero AND Multi-Pi Wires pre-connected (and long enough for some slack) as there is no easy way to do this afterwards.  You should be able to hear or feel a “click” when it is seated properly.  Once it's installed, it won't be able to go anywhere as it'll be locked on all 4 sides.
   
5. Set the 4 Threaded inserts into the Multi-Pi Base now. 
   
6. You can now secure the Multi-Pi Base Print to the top half of the Konami case as shown in Step 4. Use the m3 screw, locknut, and fender washer to secure it to the case.  
7. Now to mod the Multi-Pi.  You're going to desolder the multi connector (10-pin) and install the right angle, double row pin header.  You will not be soldering this completely flat.  You should have enough play to solder it at an angle to avoid hitting the other solder pins when you connect the cables/ribbon. See below.
   
   
    
8. Connect the modified 10 pin IDC cable to the Multi. (Don't have a photo of that, but also don't connect the other end to the multi-pi yet; nothing should be connected to the multi-pi yet.)
9. Now arrange the 2- 5-pin M-F Dupont wires so they are 1:1 double row connector on the Male end and then change the row orientation on the female end as shown below (I used Kapton cause I couldn't find my electrical tape). So as pictured below, the back row Male connectors connecting to the IDC connector is the Front Row on the Female End.  This is due to changing the connector on the multi-pi to a male pin set, which inverts the connections.  You can validate this by using a multimeter to measure continuity from the System 16 multi connector to the respective pin on the multi-pi when connected.  
   
   
10. connect the remaining wires and USB cables and such on the main Sega System 16 board for the multi-pi. 
11. Feed the cables through the opening in the Top half of the case as shown below. (you should have 4 wires coming through [1 set from the Pi Zero, 1 from the power/reset, 1 USB, and 1 from the Multi]).
    
12. Now connect all the wires up to the Multi-Pi. 
    
13. Insert PCB into tabs as shown below and make sure the wires look the same.  When you press down to lock it into the side tabs, you will have to pry the 3D print a little to get it to snap in.  
    
    
14. Almost done.  Now for the buttons and lid.  Put kapton tape (or your preferred tape) in area shown below and put the buttons in underneath.  Make sure they adhere to the tape as it will make your life easier.  Once adhered, put the lid on carefully.  It might be tight depending on how your printer is setup. Once the lid is fully on, secure it with the 4- M3x12mm screws.  Then remove the kapton tape.  The buttons won't go anywhere.  
    
     
15. If everything was done right, it should look like this. You are now done.  Enjoy!