I've included everything here!
The Fusion360 file F3D has the gonk mesh split up into separate repaired bodies which you can activate individually and send to printer or save STLs as you wish. You can also scale the whole “assembly” to your liking (use “uniform” scaling to keep the proportions right). You'll need to align the resulting STLs in your slicer though if doing this, check instructions below. Alternatively you may be able to use the enclosed ready-aligned STLs and scale them in your slicer but obviously scale uniformly in all dimensions and exactly the same % on each part!
The STL's were generated by Cura, after very carefully aligning the parts on the build plate to get the best possible position. So you should be able to just drop them into your slicer and they should end up in the correct orientation… I hope :o)
The 3MF's were also generated by Cura as above. I'm not sure if that is any different, I'm a noob to this! I don't think it retains any print settings, it's just there as another alternative if the STLs don't line up sensibly, the 3MF might.
BODY - no support or adhesion needed. 0.2mm layers work fine.
NOSE - I used 0.12mm layers because a rounded structure like this can end up showing the layer lines a bit, so the thinner the layers, the less you'll see them. Probably ok at 0.2mm but 0.12mm looks GOOD! No brim/skirt adhesion needed but I recommend support (to buildplate) and 25% infill on that support, if you're new to this then you will probably need to open up slicer settings and enable that option so it can be edited up from the usual 15% or so. Orientation should be with one of the two flattest areas behind the nose resting on the buildplate, the best (i.e. biggest) being the middle triangle of the face that points downwards towards the gonk's body. Hopefully already done for you with my STL.
HAT - Yeah this is a tricky one! Just three point contacts with the printbed with the hat pointing almost vertically upwards. That took a lot of tweaking. Again hopefully the work's done for you when you drop in the STL. I suggest an adhesion raft for this one, with default dimensions, and then support as well with 30% infill on that support.
GLUEING TOGETHER - You may need to tidy the parts with a knife just where the supports were, so they meet nicely. I used quick-setting epoxy, but a gel superglue will do nicely. A runny superglue may not get enough contact with the mating faces. Glue the hat to the body first, and before the glue sets just check that the nose aligns nicely in its slot, adjust the hat/body until that's just right, then tip the nose out while the glue sets between hat/body. Then glue the nose in. Job done.
I'm posting my photos of the separately printed parts and then the model fully assembled.
It's such a good gonk that I'm considering scaling it up a bit, printing the nose hollow and installing a LED in it, and printing the body hollow up the middle so I can put a battery in it to power the LED, hehehehe, that would make a seriously cool Xmas decoration with the nose lit up from within, or possibly even flashing :o)
Brilliant design. THANK YOU!
The author remixed this model.
Although this is strictly exactly the same model once assembled, it took quite a bit of work to learn how to split the STL mesh in Fusion360 and then separate it into sections and repair the mesh so the parts would fit together correctly for glueing together after printing. So I've uploaded all my work as a remix rather than just a reupload.