CR 10 Max linear motion. Drylin-TS-04-12

Decided to try linear motion on my CR 10 Max a few months back and after looking into a few options, Drylin from IGUS got my attention.

Being precise enough for 3d printing yet possessing a comparatively low cost. With the added bonus of no need for lubrication, I gave the square W-rails a try and was satisfied with the results

Note: This is a version i made for the TS-04-12 rails but never tested. For the Square W-Rails, go here

Provided Files---------------

These 3 are required:

D-TS-04-12-Frame

D-TS-04-12-Frame-lever

D-TS-04-12-lever

Note: Each frame can be used with 1-3 carriages. I used 2 for each, but you are free to experiment

These are optional:

D-TS-04-12-RailDistancer

To assist in straightening the rails. Use a file and caliper to get correct measurements (Written on the part). You will need 2.

M4-Spacer

If your m4-screws are too long or you just want to have a plastic spacer between the rail and screw.

M5-Spacer

After installing the linear motion system, your timing belts might be pulling at a steep angle. I used the aluminium spacers for the wheels to lower the two plates holding the belts. But if that is not enough or too much, a few of these spacers might help.

Required Hardware---------------

Tools

Digital calipers

File

Carriages

1-3 https://www.igus.eu/product/930?artNr=TW-04-12

1-3 https://www.igus.eu/product/930?artNr=TW-04-12-LLZ

!OR!

2-6 https://www.igus.eu/product/931?artNr=TWE-04-12

4 per Carriage. M3. flathead. 5-10mm

Carriage frame

12 M5. flathead. 12mm

12 M5. Locknut.

Belt holder

4 M5. Round/Socket. 12mm

Rails

2 TS-04-12. 600mm https://www.igus.eu/product/730?artNr=TS-04-12

10+ M3. Round/Socket. 11mm

10+ M3. T-nut.

Rails - Computer (Untested, may not work)

4 M4. Round/Socket. 30mm

Installation Instructions---------------

Preparations

Make sure you have printed all the 3 required parts. As well as any optional parts you might want.

Remove build plate. Loosen and unhook the timing belts, or just unscrew the 4 central M5 nuts on the hotplate carrier. Then Unscrew the 12 M5 nuts holding the hotplate carriage to the aluminium extrusions. The hotplate carriage should now be free.

Installing the rails

Note: The computer may not be detachable after you install the rails as its screws may be blocked. Please, see if the holes in the rail align with the computer screws and consider if this will be a problem.

We will be using the two trenches that the computer screws into. The central black M5 screws in the front needed their heads slightly filed down for a good flat fit in my case. Also clean the aluminium extrusions if necessary

Put in the amount of t-nuts you intend to use then screw all of them in loosely. If you notice any screws below the rails interfere, try tightening them down.

With the rails slightly loose, get them as as straight to the extrusions and one another as possible. 4mm from inner edge of extrusion, 228mm between rails. You can use the provided distancers for assistance

Installing carriages

Slide your carriages onto the rails. Making sure the right frame has the lever slot at the back to hit the end switch correctly, screw the two frames onto the carriages using the flathead M3s.

Feel how well they slide (adjust if needed and possible) and tighten the screws. Then put the lever in its slot.

Screw the Printed frames, using the 3 smaller holes for each side first, onto hotplate carriage using the M5 Flatheads. Feel how well the assembly slides.

Putting back Timing belts

Check the angles of the timing belts. If needed, add washers or aluminium spacers to lower the two plates holding the timing belts until the belts are flat. For me, the aluminium spacers previously used with the wheels worked well.

Happy with the model?---------------

If you have any questions or suggestions, feel free to leave a comment.

If you are happy with the model, consider donating. https://ko-fi.com/cyklo

Category: 3D Printer Parts