USB-C Black and Decker Tool Battey Adapter

I wanted a usb-c capable battery adapter to make my loose Black and Decker battery more
useful and power my Pinecil soldering iron. Although there are similar options other people 
have designed, when I started this I couldn't find any that checked all my boxes. I mainly 
wanted an adapter that can output to usb-c while being relatively small and compact. I am 
limited on how large objects can printed be due to my printer's build space (120mm ⌀ x 120mm H). So, I set out to create a version that prioritized size and printablility. After some trial and error I ended up here at the first release version.

The whole adapter was designed to fit snug on the battery to avoid needing to use the clip as it really didn't seem necessary for my needs. All of the parts were designed to prioritize the look and polish of the finished design and to minimize the amount of supports needed when printing. All of the files should already be positioned to be ready to print with tree supports added. Unfortunately, I did end up using whatever screws I had laying around and I also didn't have any threaded inserts. I included 2 versions of the shell. One with and one without any cutout for the on/off switch I used, so a hole could be cut for whatever you have available. I had some thoughts on potentially adding ways of securing add-ons to the shell using space on the flat side and the back. Perhaps I'll add some in the future.

There are 5 main components to this adapter: The connector, the base, the alignment tabs, the window panel, and the shell.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Insert prongs into the connector and secure the wiring to them (this was designed to be tight fitting). I used prongs from a broken wall plug and bent the very ends. Leave some length on the wire so you have room to move the connector out of the way when screwing the base to the shell.
2. Insert the long alignment tab and the support tab for the underside of the USB-a port. Feed the wires from the connector and keep them close to the support tab. Use the small space behind the usb-a port.
3. Attach the short alignment tab to the USB module like in the picture and insert it into the base.
   • All the alignment tabs were designed for a friction fit, but when inserted there is room on the underside to add glue if needed.
4. Insert thin window material into the window slot. I used a piece of 1mm acrylic I had laying around and it was perfect for this.
5. Screw the mini voltmeter to the window panel. Honestly this piece is fragile. My first attempts screwing this in actually cracked the part so I just kept the 1 of the 2 screws.
6. Drop the window panel into the shell from inside and put a couple drops of super glue in the corners to secure it in place. This did need some filing/sanding in order for the window panel to sit flush with the outside.
7. Solder in the wiring. The circuit is pretty simple, but I'm no expert. Leave a bit of length on the wire so you have room to flip the shell to the side.
   • Connect Battery(+) to switch1 then Switch2 to Meter(+) and USB(+).
   • Connect Battery(-) and Meter(-) to USB(-).
8. Once everything is wired up and working, move the connector out of the way and screw the base to the shell from underneath. Then screw the connector to the base from the sides.
9. Add rubber feet to base of battery to prevent sliding around when in use.
10. You are done!

Parts:

• Mini Rocker Switch
• USB Module
• Mini Voltmeter
• Battery

I'm very proud of how this turned out because not only is it satisfying to bring an idea to fruition from the ground up; this project also doubled as a way to dive further into fusion360 and I learned a lot. So thanks, I appreciate you for taking a look!

Happy Printing!