Ender 3 S1 - CoreXZ (Switchwire) Conversion

Contains the printable parts you will need to convert your Ender 3 S1 to CoreXZ kinematics
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updated February 20, 2025

Description

PDF

These files are the ones you will need in order to convert your Ender 3 S1 to CoreXZ kinematics.   Most of the parts can be sourced from the original Switchwire Github https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Switchwire/tree/master  but here I am providing you with the parts that are different and specifically needed for the E3S1 based upon my own conversion experience.

Benefits:

  • Much faster Z movement and accuracy (lead screws are removed in favor of belts)
  • Fewer vertical artifacts in your prints (improved print quality) that were due to poor quality lead screws from the factory
  • X and Z motors work in tandem to move the printhead left/right/up/down which means more torque is available for movements on these axis.   Translation is that you can potentially increase acceleration values and get better input shaping results
  • Faster Z homing
  • Faster Z hop 
  • Less chance of the nozzle hitting your supports and infill since Z is more accurate now

Warning:
This is a pretty involved upgrade.   It is not difficult, but you must be capable and confident in your ability to troubleshoot Klipper and hardware issues.   You should follow the Voron documentation as closely as possible, and only deviate when installing one of the E3S1 specific parts.   Post a comment and I will do my best to help you with questions related to these parts, but the Voron Discord is probably your best bet for other questions & troubleshooting assistance.

Hardware:

  • You will mainly need M5x10mm, M5x16, and M5x30 button head hex screws.   
  • You will also need M5x40mm hex socket head screws
  • You will need some M5x10x1mm stainless washers
  • You will need at least 2 stepper pulleys.   20t or 16t.   
  • You will also need at least 20 bearings:  F695 2rs  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YLDL5WK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  • Z axis:  You will need two MGN12H linear rails 350mm in length
  • X axis:  You will need one 2020 extrusion at 320mm in length
  • X axis:  You will need one MGN12H linear rail at 280mm in length 
  • Alternative X axis:   340mm extrusion and 300mm linear rail, however your belts may rub slightly.  I've included some experimental updates that may resolve this.  Comments welcome!
  • The original Switchwire uses a Stealthburner toolhead, but I personally use the Apogee one from LDO (which uses an Orbiter 2.0 extruder paired with an adaption to use the CHC PRO hotend from Triangle Labs).  More info here:  https://www.printables.com/model/589516-ender-3-speed-upgrade-x-axis  
  • You will need a good amount of GT2 6mm belt  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08974S1CC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  • You will need a pack of M5 T-nuts
  • You will need a pack of M3 heat set inserts and a tip for your soldering iron to insert them
  • You will need a Keybak 13oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088MQA10?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
  • You will need a different main board because the stock one only has proprietary connectors.  Plus this is your chance to ditch the ribbon cable!   I personally recommend the Manta E3EZ with CB1 with EZ2209 drivers and an HDMI5 screen.  Buy them from Amazon so that you can easily return them if need be.  I also recommend a Canbus breakout board, such as an ebb36 or 42, depending on what toolhead you go with.  Here is the adapter plate to install the Manta board into your Ender 3 S1. 

    https://www.printables.com/model/531654-ender-3-s1-manta-e3ez-motherboard-adapter-plate

Couple of notes for the Ender 3 S1 install:

  • You will need to loosen the two screws on the top left and right of the printer and reverse the 2020 extrusion so that the v-slot side faces forward.  This is where you will mount the upper idler blocks
  • You can use your stock Z motors if you like.  Figure out what your klipper rotation distances will be!    And make sure you can remove the stock pulleys from the shafts.  If they are pressed on, they can be difficult to remove. 

Again, feel free to post questions and comments, and I will respond quickly in most cases.   Good luck, the upgrade definitely improves print speed and quality!

Tags



Model origin

The author remixed this model.

Differences of the remix compared to the original

This contains different files that allow you to perform the upgrade on an Ender 3 S1 (instead of the original Ender 3 Pro).

License