Ender S1 plus Z-axis brace (backwards)

Bracing for the Ender S1 plus z-axis, reduce vibration of the gantry in the y-direction, without print volume reduction!
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updated November 21, 2023

Description

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Description

UPDATE 14-11-2023:  I reuploaded V8, because it had a wall which prevented the lowerblock from fitting properly on the powercord side.

These prints will allow you to create a bracing for the Ender S1 plus z-axis, making it more rigid and prevent vibration of the gantry in the y-direction. You will need to print both .stl's as well as a mirrored version (about the x-axis). Both prints can be printed without support. 

The blocks are designed to secure it with either a threaded rod and 4 locknuts, or optionally, to use a threaded rod and two nuts under tension, and a 20x1mm tube under compression. This would look better, but would require you to cut the tubes to size very precise (as you cant adjust their length on the printer itself).

If you decide to make this model, let me know what you thought of it! I would appreciate some feedback and a make!

Results

Vibration measurements have been performed to assess the impact of these braces. To this extend, an ADXL345 is mounted on the sprite extruder. An TEST_RESONANCES AXIS=Y has been used to measure the vibrations with the sprite extruder near the top of the gantry (at position X=150, Y=150, Z=300). The plot shows a reduction of 85% of the vibrations.

 

Instructions

To install it on you printer you will need:

to connect the base blocks left to right (optional):

Optional:

  • 2x 20x1mm aluminium tube approximately 512mm in length (I would suggest to cut them to size at the printer)
Instructions (normal version):
  1. Mount the Baseblocks on the underside of the baseplate. The original screws will be replaced by the m3x6 screws.
  2. Put a nylon locknut on the m8 thread (with about 30mm of the rod extended), place the rod in the baseblock and secure it with another m8 thread
  3. Put a nylon locknot on the m8 threads (about 15mm from the top)
  4. Remove the covers of the gantry top extrusion, feed a m4 threaded rod through the extrusion (be carefull of the wires for the filament sensor, you might be better of removing the cover briefly).
  5. Slide the topblocks on the m8 thread
  6. Secure the two Topblocks firmly to the top extrusion by tightening the flatnuts
  7. Tighten the lower m8 nut against the topblock (dont force it to much, otherwise you will push the gantry forward)
  8. Tighten the top m8 nuts to fixate the topblock with respect to the thread.
Instructions Tube version:
  1. Mount the Baseblocks on the underside of the baseplate. The original screws will be replaced by the m3x6 screws.
  2. Put a nylon locknut on the m8 thread, slide the thread in the baseblock from the underside. (optionally you could secure it with a normal M8 nut).
  3. Slide the tube over the threaded rod from the top and rest it in the baseblock print.
  4. Remove the covers of the gantry top extrusion, feed a m4 threaded rod through the extrusion (be carefull of the wires for the filament sensor, you might be better of removing the cover briefly).
  5. Slide the topblocks on the m8 thread, and sit the tube inside the allocated space on the topblock
  6. Secure the two Topblocks firmly to the top extrusion by tightening the flatnuts
  7. Tighten the top m8 nuts to fixate the topblock with respect to the thread.

 

Print settings:

To make the whole construction as rigid as possible, select the stiffest (e.g. highest elasticity modulus) filament you own. I've printed it out of (PLA is more suitable than PETG) with 40% adaptive cubic infill and 8 perimeter lines. The 8 perimeter lines will make sure that the perimeters of the hole in the lower block, intersect with the walls that will fit the back of the printer.

Possible to print in place without support (top block on side face)

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The author marked this model as their own original creation.

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