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I've decided to upgrade my Lack enclosure by designing a new one. I call it the Lignum enclosure. It's designed around a couple of key concepts:

Silent: Sturdy enough for a concrete paver underneath your printer. And the whole enclosure rests on squash balls for maximum vibration dampening.
Maintenance first: All sides of the printer can be inspected through windows or mirrors. The door is easily detachable, in case of filament changes. To remove the printer, just unplug the power cord and lift it out.
Build to spec: No need for an entire workshop, it can be built in an apartment. But it can be made to fit any machine.

I Before you begin

All lumber should be bought sized 38x38mm (2x2\"). You can find this in the metric world by going to a lumber dealer and asking for CLS lumber. This should be the smallest size available. Corners can be, but do not need to be rounded.

Whenever you attach something with screws you should drill a pilot hole. For the 5mm major diameter screws, the pilot hole should be 3mm in diameter. Measure and pick a suitable drill bit.

I.I Customizing the size of the enclosure

There's an easy set of steps to modify the size of the enclosure to fit your printer. All measurements are in mm, with imperial added.

Determine the dimensions of your printer (LxWxH)
Wooden beams (X, Y or Z-direction) should be W, L or H.
The bottom sheet is sized LxW
The top sheet is smaller (L - 12) x (W - 12) (\u00bd\")
Same goes for the sides: (L - 12) x (H - 12) (\u00bd\") or (W - 12) x (H - 12) (\u00bd\")
The door can be sized like the sides, but I've cut mine to -25mm (1\") instead of -12mm.
Total size of the enclosure is W + 92mm ( 3\" 5/8 ) and the same for L and H.

My build is 560x560x500 (LxWxH). This is for my Prusa MK3, leaving me some space to store tools and a 2kg filament spool inside.

NOTE: I decided to reuse the PMMA panels of a LACK encolosure. So I made some frames around the PMMA panels to enlarge them. I suggest you order new laser-cut PMMA panels, if you haven't got a lot of experience woodworking. The MDF needed to reuse the LACK PMMA panels is NOT included in the bill of materials.

I.II Bill of Materials

#	Item	Metric	Imperial	Optional	Notes
110	Universal pan head screws	5x20	#10x\u00be\"	No	Also known as \u201cwood screws\u201d
8	Construction Lumber	560mm 38x38mm	22\" 2x2\"	No	Length and width
4	Construction Lumber	500mm 38x38mm	20\" 2x2\"	No	Height
1	MDF sheet	560x560mm, 18mm thick	22x22\" \u00be\" thick	No	Bottom sheet, plywood is also fine
1	PMMA sheet	548x548mm, 3mm thick	21 \u00bdx21 \u00bd\" 1/8\" thick	No	Top sheet. It's possible to use MDF like I did.
4	PMMA sheet	488x548mm, 3mm thick	21 \u00bdx19 \u00bd\" 1/8\" thick	No	Side panels. Note that this includes the front panel
4	Squash ball	40mm	same	Yes	It's the default size of a squash ball
2	Cabinet door bumpers	10mm	3/8\"	Yes	I used transparent ones. Smaller sizes like \u00bd\" works as well. As do felt pads.
1	Round hygrometer	41mm diameter	same	Yes	These are easily found on aliexpress.
1	PTFE Tube	500mm	\u00bd\"	Yes	Used as liner for the filament guide
4	M3 socket cap screws	10mm		No	For attaching the door hooks to the door panel
4	M3 nuts			No

I.III Printed Parts

All STL's are rotated and placed for optimal printing. You should not need to change this. If supports are needed, it's mentioned in the notes. PLA, PETG, ABS or some other filament doesn't really matter. Just make sure you have good layer bonding. I printed mine in ColorFabb PLA Economy Black.

NOTE: Some parts may be too high for your choice of PMMA sheets. You can easily cut these in PrusaSlicer to your needed height.

I.III.I Default slicer settings

Perimeters: 5 for a 0.4mm nozzle (around 2.5mm)
Top & bottom layers: 10 for a 0.2mm layer height (around 2mm)
Infill: Gyroid 15%
Seam placement: Random

I.III.II Part index

#	Part name	Optional	Notes
8	corner.stl	No
6	bottom_holder.stl	No
16	panel_holder_?mm.stl	No	Select the one that matches your side panel thickness.
2	handle.stl	Yes	One for the front, and one for the back on the door
4	foot.stl	Yes	You can also screw or glue a 38mm wooden cube to the bottom and attach felt to it.
2	temperature_sensor_grommet.stl	Yes	1 like the stl and the other one should be mirrored along the X axis.
1	filament_guide.stl	Yes	Only needed if the enclosure isn't big enough to store a filament spool. Requires a 9.5mm (3/8\") or 10mm hole in the top panel
2	door_hanger.stl	No
2	door_hook.stl	No
2	door_stopper.stl	No

II Prepare the raw stock

II.I Adjusting the fit of the wooden beams

First take all wooden beams and attach a corner.stl piece to each end. If you see burnished spots on the wood when removing the corner, then sand down until the indents are gone and repeat the process until you achieved a smooth fit for all beams.

II.II Fine-tune the length of the wooden beams

Now we'll test that both the width and length rail fit the bottom sheet. Attach 2 corner.stl to a length rail and also to a width rail. The \u201clegs\u201d of the corner pieces should just touch the edges of the sheet. Make adjustments until you get a snug fit. Make a final check that all L, W, and H wooden beams are the same length.

II.III Create a fillet on the bottom sheet

The corners of the bottom sheet need a roundover of 8mm radius. It's the easiest to take one of the corner.stl pieces and sand a fillet until both \u201clegs\u201d of the corner touch the sides of the base sheet. I used 60 grit paper. Do this for all four corners.

II.IV Check the length of the side panels and top panel

Use 2 6mm spacers and put them next to the edge of a side panel. Take the corresponding wooden beam and check if the ends are flush. Adjust the side panels if needed.

III Assembling the bottom sheet and frame

III.I Attach the bottom holders

You should have a flat surface, like flat tabletop, for this step. Put the bottom sheet on four 6mm (\u00bc\") spacers, with the underside facing up. It's width section, the one with where the door will be placed, should face you. Take a bottom_holder.stl and screw in the middle of the front edge.

If you don't have any 6mm (\u00bc\") spacers you can print spacer.stl

Place 4 bottom_holder.stl on the left and right edges about 75mm (3\") away from the front and back edge. Secure them in place.

III.III Place the feet

Just attach the 4 foot.stl prints on each corner of the baseplate. Don't forget to pre-drill, it's easy to split MDF! Now is the time to pop in those squash balls.

III.II Attach the bottom frame beams

Place 4 corner.stl on the 4 wooden side beams and make a rectangle that fits over the baseplate. DO NOT ATTACH the corners yet. This should give you exact position of where you need to drill the pilot holes. Use a 5mm (3/16\") brad point drill bit as a center bunch. Dissassemble the rectangle and drill pilot holes.

Attach one of the wooden beams to the base plate. Now use a stack of books or boxes to raise the baseplate. Add 2 corner.stl on each end and attach the other 2 beams. Repeat for the last beam. Once the frame is around the base plate you can drive screws connecting the corner.stl to the wooden frame. You can now put the base plate on its feet.

IV Assmbling the side panels

IV.I Attach the legs

Put the legs (Z wooden beams) into the corner.stl of the base frame and fasten them.

IV.II Attach the panel holders

Only attach these holders on 3 sides! We don't need it on the door. Make sure you attach them at the center of the beam.

Put a corner.stl on a leg, this makes it easier to mark the center of the leg. Attach 12 panel_holer_?mm.stl on 3 sides.

V Assembling the top

V.I Create the top frame rectangle

Assemble part of the rectangle with 3 wooden beams and 2 corner.stl . Put the other 2 corner.stl on the remaining beam. Place the 7 remaining panel holders onto the wooden beams.

NOTE: It's very easy to forget where the door is. I'd suggest you'd put the door on the lone wooden beam. Only fasten a single panel holder on this beam!

Now you can slide the top panel into the open rectangle. It's now time to close the rectangle use the wooden beam with the 2 corner.stl attached. Fasten all corners to the beams.

V.II Insert the side panels

Simple as that. Just slide them in place.

V.II Attach the top

Put the whole top panel assembly on the legs and fasten the corners to the legs. You should now have the enclosure without the door attached.

VI Attach the door

VI.I Attach the door hooks to the door panel

Place the hooks on the back side of the door panel. The should be either side and about 75mm (3\") from the top. Drill with a 3mm (1/8\") bit through the pilot holes of the door_hook.stl into the panel. Take the door_hook_cover.stl and insert the m3 nuts into the part and screw the hooks onto the panel.

NOTE: I used small pan head screws screwed directly in the MDF sides of the door panel. This works fine and you don't need the cover plate.

VI.II Attach the door hanger

Place the door inside the enclosure with a door_hanger.stl already in the hook. Just hold it there with your hands. Position the door at the correct height. The flat part of the the door hanger should be facing towards the bottom and the round part should be aligned with the back sides of them beams. Drill and screw the hanger to the leg beam. Do the same on the other side. At least now you can measure making the process a lot simpler.

VI.III Attach the door stopper

Fasten the door stoppers to the leg beams about 50mm (2\") from the bottom plate. Just like with the hangers, the part should be aligned with the back part of the beam. Stick the furniture bumpers onto the printed parts.

VI Help needed!

Since I work in metric, can anyone attempting to build this in imperial provide some feedback about the build experience, part availability or errors?
I couldn't find any info on easily available M3 alternatives in imperial units. Any help would be appreciated.
The actual built of the enclosure was not as smooth as it would seem if you read the instructions. Was everything clear? Did you need more guidance somewhere? Did I forget something?
If you have rounded over lumber, can you measure its radius so I can update the corner.stl for rounded stock?

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