With this mod comes a shorter path for your filament, easier loading / unloading and a no fuss look.
I originally wanted to reduce the Hight of the bowden tube to stop it rubbing on the roof of the top hat but found I couldn't as it ment not having quite enough length to reach the full extents of the printer, so I came up with this small but mighty idea.
“what if it came in through the back plate?”
after a couple of design and test idea's I landed on this one.
it is as simple as I could make it but also making it robust because lets face it, no one like to reprint parts often to replace worn out / badly designed parts.
to add this mod to your printer you will need…
1 x 3mm drill bit and a drill
some tape (to hold the drilling jig in place)
2 x M3 heat set nuts
2 x M3 x 10mm screws
the printable drilling jig is made so the holes will line up perfectly with the parts either side of the 3mm acrylic panel. it had 2 locating tabs and these will hold it in the correct location for drilling. the tape is used to hold it in place to make sure it doesn't move while drilling.
i found it a good idea to drill the mounting holes first and then inset the M3 x 10mm screws before drilling the angled hole.
this will ensure you don't ruin you nice panel.
after the holes are finished clean off any rough edges.
add the heat set nuts to the larger hole on the back of the bowden adapters and then use the M3 x 10 screws to fix to one another either side of the panel.
now just push you bowden tube into both ends and trim to size.
TIP, if you bowden tube does not go in push an M4 screw into the hole and pull it out. this will remove any rough parts causing the hole to me slightly too small.
print with the normal Voron perameters
4 perimeters
5 top and bottom
40% infill
ABS / ASA are good materials to use as it does get quite warm in there.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.