the pcbs must have a little bit more clearence than pro ones, i use 24 mil
For this you need a virgin pcb,Ferric chloride ore some other etching solution, some tape (blue painters tape leaves no residue) to attach the pcb to the bed, a permanent marker and a plotter attachment (i made a fancy one with linear rods, but maybe you can use a simpler one)
i use fusion 360 to make the pcb and then save it as a 3d model, you only need the copper layer, once you save it as a 3mf, you put it on the slicer and up the thickness to .2
you might want to hit print to know where it will land on the bed, so when you put the pcb you align it with the drawing on the bed
first you clean the pcb with steel wool and alcohol, make sure to dont touch it with your bare hands
now that everything is ready, you start the print, it will level, then go up, put the pcb in the bed wit tape, and make sure to lift the marker as it starts so it doesnt crash into the pcb, once it is in the area you can just leave it printing
make sure the marker is low enough to touch the pcb when it goes down, but high enough to leave it when it jumps to other trace
once the pcb is drawn, you will need to bake it in, might be better to remove the tape first so it doesnt get messy, just heat the bed to 80c for about 15 minutes
once the ink is set you can etch it in ferric chloride where it will disolve the copper that isnt covered by the marker
the printer also makes a good heater/ agitator for the ferric chloride, but take caution as you juggle something that eats copper on top of a machine that needs its copper
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