Tronxy X5S Series SuperX Bar Mod

Add an extra ~25mm in build height (I got 24mm) by mounting your X gantry bar on top of the gantry plates. Really helpful if you want to upgrade to a volcano style hotend and keep your build volume. This mod also makes the gantry bar more stable because it allows more mounting points, and prints should be more accurate because the belts are inline with the gantry bar.

Uses 10mm M5 screws and t-slot nuts. Has spacers built in (for the gantry plates).
M5 and M3 nuts for the carriage plate. I had to press them in place with pliers.

Print the Gantry Plates with a pause at layer height to embed 8mmx4mm (7.8mm x 3.8mm) M5 nuts in it. It has sequential bridging built in, but enable supports too, touching build plate only. Print on the X bar side up.

The rest of the prints are pretty straight forward. Print in a durable plastic. At least 4 walls with 35% infill. 

1. First, put all your 10mm M5 screws through the holes on the gantry plates and thread the t-slot nuts on to help keep them in place.
2. Then, put the bar into the slots on the plates and set it on top of the frame, without screwing them in.
   • Rotate the t-slot nut on the ends because there isn't too much clearance for them, and they probably won't rotate easily once the bar is on.
3. Assemble the plates with the M5 screws that came with the printer. 
   • You might have to use 20 tooth idler pulleys and spacers, like I have.
   • You have to put the inner 2 wheels on, and then hold the outer 2 wheels in place while screwing in the screws.
   • The embedded nuts allow you to adjust the torque for the wheels and pulleys separately.
4. Center the gantry bar and torque down the M5 screws holding it in place.
5. Assemble the hotend carriage and back plate.
   • You have to put the belts through the holes before tightening down the wheels on the carriage plate.
   • The plate was rubbing on the bar for me, so I scaled the included .stl by a 1mm. You could probably get away with scaling the spacers by another 1mm or two. This would also help keep the belts straight.
   • You might have to adjust the pillow blocks or remove any spacers on them, like I had to.
   • Putting M5 nuts in the slots in the back allows you to assemble the hotend completely before putting on the wheels.
   • The back plate is (very slightly) asymmetric and goes on one way. I may redesign them with spacers built in.

If you're using sensorless homing, my sensorless endstops on the gantry bar might help, because otherwise the belts run into the pulleys.

Use my mozEND fan shroud, the carriage plate is designed for it. Or modify the carriage plate .step file to have M3 nut slots in the back behind the cooling block so you can properly torque down the hotend.

Make sure the bed's drag chain doesn't run into the aluminum extrusion frame. I included a drag chain mount to help out. It's just shortened by 2mm.

.step files provided for you to easily modify.

This is my idea from 2018. Now it's real.