mozEND MK8: Hotend shroud for Tronxy x5s series. TZ E3 2.0 version added

This hotend shroud is designed around the Tronxy x5s series carriage plate to include a BLTouch and ADXL345 mount.
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updated March 13, 2024

Description

PDF

Update2: added a version for the TZ E3 2.0

Update: (quick and dirty) Volcano edition added.

This hotend shroud is designed around the Tronxy x5s series carriage plate to include a BLTouch and ADXL345 mount. It has a slot for a 75x30 blower fan to provide plenty of cooling (may update with a 40mm fan slot, just ask). It uses a 40mm fan for the cooling block. It may work with a CR-10 or Ender or any other MK8 hotend printer, but that's untested. It would probably work on a CR-10 and Ender with a Tronxy x5s carriage plate.

To slice, enable supports on build plate only. Then take the 2 support blocks inside the shroud and turn walls down to 1 or 0, turn top and bottom layers to 0, infill to 20% aligned rectilinear, and infill direction to 90 degrees. Make a support enforcer for the inside of the shroud where the bowden tube goes and make a support enforcer where the 75x30mm blower fan inlet is. Or just use my 3mf for Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer. It is designed to be printed flat, so bridges get fairly crazy. Print in PETG or another suitable material, PLA tends to flex over time and will require retightening. Be sure to clean out the support interface, as it will rub against the wires and fray them.

The .step file is included for you to easily make modifications.

Installation will be a doozy. You will have to mount the shroud onto the plate and the plate onto the gantry bar before installing the cooling block because the screws will be inaccessible. I use a modified version of this carriage plate (included). I included slots for M3 nuts to go in the back behind the cooling block. Robo-grips helped me out tightening the shroud against the plate. You could tighten the top wheels down before putting on the shroud and then, before putting the cooling block in, put it on the gantry bar and then tighten the bottom wheel (might not work). It would help to make slots for additional M5 nuts to go between the wheels and the plate so you can tighten the wheels down after fixing the shroud onto the carriage plate, using additional spacers. I may do this later (update: added).

The ADXL345 may be too close to the hotend and will be at risk of damage/solder reflow. I have 5 so I will test this. Just remove it after calibration if you are afraid of damaging it.

[bltouch]
x_offset: 40.0
y_offset: 0.0
z_offset = 1.1 #for my printer

[adxl345]
axes_map: -x, z, -y #if you mount it with the chip facing the hotend like I did

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