A creation to replace the double door and remove the line (might be a gap) you have at center, using 5 mm pannels.
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updated October 1, 2023

Description

PDF

############################# UPDATE #############################

 14/09/2023 

  • added DXF folder with dxf files if you want to order your pannel CNC's cut by specialized website (or if you have a CNC)
  • added mirrored files for the hinge in contact with pannel, to have Voron's logo in the right direction

########################### DESCRIPTION ###########################

Vidéo 1 : 

Vidéo 2 :

 

Why this mod ?

  • I was lazy of the line (sometimes a gap for the worst assembled Voron:-)) between the two doors of my Voron, estheticaly speaking, and also for watching through it.
  • Also, 2.5 mm pannels from stock Voron doesn't provide a good insulation due to its weak thickness.
  • That is why i designed this single door mod, that doesn't need to buy 2020 extrusions, as I could saw on others Voron mods.
  • This one won't make the door too heavy, will be using the stock 1 mm foam tape (so you can keep the one already in piece).
  • I used 5 mm plexiglass panel, for a way better insulation and something clearly more rigid.
  • This design will be an easy and well insulated, with a nice design, and also fast removable door (as shown on video, will take a couple of a second)

I am still working on a magnetic version (that i started to work first before screws hinge, but magnet weren't strong enough for the weight of the door).

 

What to print

  • You will have to print all the pieces in the “Common” folder
  • You will also have to print all files in the folder “Tools”.
  • And you will have to pick the size of your voron in specific folder (there are 3 “Specific” folders, one for 250, one 300 and the last for 350).
  • All files are supposed to be oriented in the print orientation when you import them into your slicer. I specificaly designed it to have the textured face to be the face you will face when you will be in front of your printer.
  • No supports are needed, except for the logo voron v2.stl if you want it to match the textured face (but not mandatory).
  • Depending the size of your Voron, some "edge" pieces might be too short when printing with ABS cause by retraction of material that will shrink a bit. That's the reason why you will find :
    • 350-Edge_top_bottom1_1mm
    • 350-Edge_top_bottom2_1mm
    • 350-Edge_top_bottom1_Lock_1mm

 

  •       There are also the non + 1 mm version of those three files. On my 350, i had to print the + 1 mm version. On 300 and 250, since i didn't test, i can't say but you should be ok with standard files.

 

  • Last thing, the files are named with “x2” or “x3”, which means they have to be printed 2 or 3 times. The files without a “x” will have to be printed only once.

 

Left or right door ?

For my personnal use, i needed my door to open from left to right. If you want to open it from right to left, you can easily do it, you will only have to mirror it after import on your slicer. Those pieces only have to be mirrored :

  • Edge_left1.stl
  • Edge_left2.stl
  • Edge_right1.stl
  • Edge_right2.stl
  • Handle3_feet_a.stl
  • Handle3_feet_b.stl
  • Hinge_2020v2-1.0d

There is also a specific folder called "Mirrored files" with the Hinge_door file that will be already mirrored. Had to add this because if you would mirror the STL file with your slicer, the Voron logo would also be mirrored and no more in the right direction.

 

Drilling tools and DXF files

     1. Cutting and Drilling it yourself

You will have to print the two drilling tools and use it for drilling your pannel. I used a drilling bit of 4 mm to have some mechanical game to adjust the door. You can use a 3.5 mm (maybe also a 3 mm but might be too small). If using a 4 mm drilling bit, you will have to slightly redrill the tool

  • For hinge you will have to use : “Drilling guide Hinge.stl”. Just put it into the corner, and drill with a drilling bit with a drilling machine. Return the pannel and drill the other side.
  • For handle you will have to use : “Drilling Handle.stl”. I advise you to center it on the left (or right side) then to use some light tape to maintain it, then drill trough it.

You will observe a really light dercease of 1 mm (on 350 Voron size) from left to right, caused by the game into the hinges. To be honest, if i wouldn't have tell you might have not noticed it.

     2. Order it allready cut and drilled

I added a DXF files with all 3 dimensions with .dxf, if you want to have it machined by a CNC or whatever.

 

Pannel dimension

The pannel dimensions are those one :

For 350 : 502 x 480 x 5 mm

For 300 : 452 x 430 x 5 mm (should be ok but didn't test since i don't have a 300)

For 250 : 402 x 380 x 5 mm (should be ok but didn't test since i don't have a 250)

I used this kind of panel : link 1 or link 2. Just are just an example, you just have to found it into your own shop/country.

 

Tips

  • I designed it for M3 x 40 SHCS screws. They have to be threaded on the entire lengh, because there is a threaded M3 insert into the Hinge part that is screwed on the panel.

Here is the link where you can buy it (since it isn't easy to find in full threaded, most of time they are threaded on 18 mm) : M3 x 40 SHCS fully threaded.

Though, in case you have SHCS M3 x 30 screws, threaded only on 18 mm lenght, they will work since the non threaded part will make 12 mm. I used it at the first time and it works, even if M3x40 fits the hinge better cause on entire lenght.

 

  • Magnets : I use N52 magnets.
  • Take care with edge pieces, they are non symetrical, to make the mount more rigid. The 3 mm thickness side goes outside the printer :

 

  • As T-nut, use roll in spring T-nut at least for the Hinge_2020v2. They are easy to put into the extrusion, there is nothing to modify. For me that's mandatory, if you use an hammered T-nut and that one isn't screwed properly, your door will fall down on floor (experienced that, hopefully only some printed part broke during the fall).

For others, no matters you are using hammered or roll in spring T-nut.

 

Material

in my opinion, it is better to print with ABS or ASA, but feel free to use anything else.

All the magnets have been put into there slot without glue. But you can glue it if you like. There are holes on each pieces to chase the excess of glue.

Those holes are also here to remove easily the magnet from there slot.

 

 

Bill Of Material

The quantity in the down table are already doubled for the piece in double.

Nom pièce STLTypeHeadøLenght (mm)QuantityComment
Fixing handleScrewBHCSM310 mm4 u 

 

Handle3_feet_a

Screw

Threaded Insert 

Round Magnet

SHCS

 

M3

M3

6 mm

8 mm

4 mm

3 mm

2 u

2 u

2 u

 

OD 5 mm

N52

 

Handle3_feet_b

Screw

Threaded Insert 

Round Magnet

SHCS

 

M3

M3

6 mm

8 mm

4 mm

3 mm

2 u

2 u

2 u

 

OD 5 mm

N52

Handle3Threaded Insert  M34 mm4 u 

 

Lock_2020v2

Screw

T-nut

Round Magnet

SHCS

 

M3

M3

6 mm

16 mm

 

3 mm

2 u

2 u

4 u

 

 

N52

Fixing doorScrewBHCSM310 mm4 u 
Hinge_2020v2

Screw

T-nut

SHCS

M3

M3

12 mm

2 u

2 u

 

Roll in spring

Hinge_door

Screw

Threaded Insert 

SHCS

 

M3

M3

40 mm

4 mm

2 u

6 u

Full threaded

OD 5 mm

 

Door_latch

Screw

T-nut

Round Magnet

SHCS

M3

M3

6 mm

12 mm

 

3 mm

1 u

1 u

1 u

 

 

N52

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Model origin

The author marked this model as their own original creation.

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