Heartbreaker MK5 a Dual 5015 Fan Cooling System for Sprite Pro/S1/S1 Pro

~ UPDATE: 03/01/2024 ~

The amazon links provided below are my affiliate links, if you use those links to buy your hardware you will also be directly contributing to me as well. Please consider using those links if you need to buy the hardware. 

     I've had a lot more interest in this design so I decided to give the people what they wanted.

• There are FIVE different designs to choose from(MK5 has a special Batman Edition). The original Heartbreaker design has a much wider focal point where the air hits the nozzle and I'd say is more suitable for PLA printing. Heartbreaker MK2 - MK5 aim to optimize the airflow out of the 5015 fans to maximize efficiency. Heartbreaker MK2 - MK5 is more well rounded and provides more precise cooling. 

• HEARTBREAKER MK2-MK5 DO NOT REQUIRE ADDITIONAL SUPPORTS. PRINT AS IS. THE ONLY CHANGE TO MAKE IS IF YOU'RE USING CURA, YOU HAVE AN OPTION TO TURN THE INTERAL BODIES INTO SUPPORTS. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH THE 3MF FILE.

• 10/11/24 update: For MK2-MK5 any Endoscope/Borescope with a scope diameter of 0.33in or 8.382mm will work:
  •  -MK1: https://amzn.to/3BR8rJW  
  • -MK2-MK5: Often out of stock, Grab one while you can ➡ https://amzn.to/4a4r61x

• There is now an optional attachment for the Resonant Frequency Accelerometer that comes with the Creality Sonic Pad. If that is something you're using.(STANDARD ON MK5): https://amzn.to/3BMyAK1

• All versions of The Heartbreaker require a 0-Y-Offset. To achieve this, I am using a model that I also designed: https://www.printables.com/model/682867-zero-y-offset-5015-fan-backplate-for-sprite-pro

• All models are using the 24V 5015 Blower fan which I found on amazon: https://amzn.to/3PioYd3

• The stock screws will no longer fit with this model, so you will need some different screws. I know this is common, but here are the ones I'm using(MK5 requires 4, M3x25 bolts):  https://amzn.to/3W450GS

• The 5015 fans must be spliced and soldered together in parallel and then put into the same port as your original part cooling fan(the connectors on the fans are bigger than the port on your board). You can easily just cut the cable from your old part cooling fan, but if you're not interested in doing that, here is a link to the connectors that will fit into your extruder board: https://amzn.to/3W3LM3V

• Once I was able to print faster because my cooling was better, I ran into the issue of the stock heater block not being able to heat filament fast enough… so I upgraded. Here is the one I used to use before upgrading again to the K1 hot end… (yes, the K1 hot end fits your sprite extruder, you just have to splice some more wires): 
  • Ceramic Heater Block
  • K1 Hotend

• MK5 has optional heated inserts, if you're interested in those here is the link to that: https://amzn.to/4a1ZREI

• I have already placed each model in their optimal printing orientation, so no need to fiddle around with that. Models should load directly in the center of your build plate. If you're using the 3MF versions AND Cura, please be aware that if you're using MK2 or MK3, the internal supports will load as separate bodies (as they should) so if you do need to move the model around, remember to group all models before moving. If you have “automatically drop models to buildplate” turned on, turn this off. 

Calibration Tips:

If you need to Calibrate your Printer, consider checking out this calibration cube I designed. It tests a bunch of different things in one small package. Also… Harry Potter… So… Yeah…  

https://www.printables.com/model/650696-deathly-hallows-calibration-cube

Thank you for your interest in my design and supporting my project! It's been exciting to hear feedback and help people get their printers calibrated. If you have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to reach out. I am extremely responsive. 

Having issues calibrating your printer? Come get some free help in my discord server: https://discord.gg/Wd46tYYw4j

Happy printing!