Ender 5 Plus Skirting and Lower Enclosure (Base Case)

This is a Work-In-Progress and will be changing so bookmark this project and be sure to check back in.

For faster updates or requests, click the Facebook link on my profile page to join my group.

Version 3 is being added now…

     This version has larger Hex openings as well as a mesh background with a smaller hex pattern. I will be adding more panels for V3 as I make them. V3 will allow you to cut a simple rectangle to add to the bottom as a floor instead of something more complicated. I will also have hold down clips to keep it in place. If there is something you need add a comment of what it is. Thanks.

Naming:

• IEC - Has an opening for the IEC Mains Cord Connector
• Switch - Has an opening for a panel mount switch
• RJ45 - Has on opening for a panel mount RJ45 Connector(Cat5 cable)
• TC - Has an opening for a panel mount Thermocouple Connector

Forethought

    I designed this for my personal use. I modify my printers constantly and this gives me freedom to use any components that I want. This is for the Ender 5 Plus, not the Ender 5. The original Ender 5 Plus case is fine for the original components but doesn't give you many options to modify or add on. This raises the Ender 5 Plus frame by 70mm to allow for putting the electronics in that space eliminating the original enclosure and just looks a lot better than a plain looking printer. Also, the skirting can be added without removing the original case if that is what you want. 

Printer Settings

   I used the suggested printer settings of  0.4mm nozzle, 0.16 layer, 3 walls, 5 top/ 3 bottom layers, 15% Rectilinear infill.

The PSU Double Stack Mount can be found HERE!

Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrinterModding

Parts Needed

• M4x16 Socket Head machine screws
• M5x30 Socket Head Machine screws
• M4x16 Button Head machine screws
• IEC Connector (can be reused from original case)
• Rocker switch;Model: KCD3-101;Action Type: Latching (can be reused from original case)
• RJ45 Shielded Male Plug to RJ45 Shielded Female Jack.Cable length:1m 
• USB3.0 Male to Female Extension Cable with Ears
• Swivel Adjustable Leveling Feet M8x1.25
• 2 Pieces 20x20x600 mm v-slot extrusion.

Additional Parts

• Ender 5 Plus to RatRig Conversion 
• CPAP Fan Housing
• Fan Mount for Manta M8P Mainboard
• Mount for BTT Pro 5160T Drivers
• RatRig Styled Cable Guides slightly modified in size
•  

Assembly

1.    Start by printing the FEET. There are two types of feet, one for screw on rubber feet and one for screw in self leveling feet. The leveling feet are size M8 threads. This is really the best way to go as a lot of surfaces may not be flat or level.  Remove the original rubber feet and install the feet using M4x16 socket head machine screw and T-nuts. They are marked L and R to distinguish them apart. They will go on opposing corners. You can either use the display housing or source a different display mount. Once installed level your printer using the bottom rails as reference.
2.    Next, print the center pieces.  Some have various logos so mix and match as you like. If you are going to use the display housing, you will need 3 of these. If not, then you will need 4 pieces. Install the feet using M4x16 socket head machine screw and T-nuts These will need to be center between the feet. Leave then a little loose so they can be adjusted when the side skirts are installed.
3.    Next, print the side skirts. Install them using 4Mx16 button head machine screws. The fasteners are installed from the inside. They are blind fasteners not seen from the outside. Loosen the feet and center skirts to adjust the pieces for the best fit. Re-tighten fasteners. 
4. 
5.    Next, print you rear skirts. Install them in the same fashion as the side skirts.
6.    Remove the original enclosure. Cut 2 pieces of 20x20 extrusion to fit the span across where the original enclosure was (about 512 mm in length). The ends will need to be tapped to fit an M5 machine screw. Install them using M5x30 mm or longer socket head machine screws. See images below.
7.    Next, print the display housing and install it using m4x12 mm button head machine screws. Put screws in the front bar as well as the 2 cross members you just installed.
8.    Next, decide what components you are going to have in the front of the printer., on/off switch, temperature controller, usb port, drawer, etc. Print the front skirts and install using M4x16mm button head machine screws.
9.    Next, Decide which display you will be using and print the display mount. I currently only have a few but will be adding more as requested.
10.    Next, If you are going to have a floor in the base, Cut the floor pan. ¼" acrylic works well but other materials can be used. The floor pan should be sized to fit your printer. Measure the inside opening and cut according to your needs.
11.     Next, the electronics can be installed. There are too many options to go into this with any detail. If there is a mount you need but don't see, drop me a message and I will try to add it in. A mount isn't really needed as you can just drill holes in the bottom pan and use some raised offsets. 
12. Next cut a piece of ¼" polycarbamate for the top of the enclosure. Cut this to fit your configuration. 
13. Please post your makes as I would love to see them. If I have made an error please drop me a message. This is a lot to get correct the first time. THANKS

Version 3 parts UPLOADED! SOME display mounts will need a shim. This part was created separately to allow easier printing.

6/8/2025 Added … Display Mount - RPi 7in. V1.1 Screen

6/8/2025 Added … E5Plus - Screw Foot V3 06082025 Storm Trooper

6/8/2025 Added … E5Plus - Screw Foot V3 06082025

6/8/2025 Added … Display Mount - RPi 7in. Screen V1.1 06082025

6/14/2025 Added … Display Mount - BTT HDMI7