X Axis Belt Tensioner for Tronxy XY-2 Pro

UPDATE 11122021:  I added an 8mm spacer for using a M5 screw as an axle for the bearings and a smaller nut by “hebign” to match the Y axis belt tensioner design I'm using.

This is a VERY minimalist remix of JOGIAREA's X axis tensioner for the Ender 5, modified to fit the X axis of the Tronxy XY-2 Pro.

The Tronxy XY-2 Pro is my least favorite printer of the seven I own.  It's treated as a really bad parent would treat a stepchild.  It's working location is actually on the floor under one of my desks.  The thermister for the heated bed failed on it yesterday ½ way through a very long print.  Since I had to pull it out from under the desk to troubleshoot, I thought I'd give it a quick once over to see what else I should do to it before returning it to service…

Last week I installed JOGIAREA's Y axis tensioner for the Ender 5 on my Sovol SV05.  His Y axis tensioner worked so well on my SV05 I thought I'd look at his X axis tensioner and see how it could be adapted to my Tronxy.

The Tronxy XY-2 Pro is a very poorly made copy of the Creality Ender 3.  Tronxy specced this printer to look better than the Ender 3 in nearly every respect, but they failed miserably IMO in delivering a printer that could compete with the Ender 3 on multiple fronts.  Forget the technical specifications, this printer was an absolute dog from the word go.  It arrived new missing the lever for the X axis end stop switch, a horribly burred X axis gantry extrusion that required several hours of filing so the hot end carriage would move freely, an auto bed leveling sensor that would randomly become oblivious to the heated bed allowing the nozzle to be driven hard into it, and more…  I'm sure I just got the one bad one…

Anyhow, since Tronxy's using a mostly Creality design, I figured it shouldn't take much effort to adapt JOGIAREA's model to work on it, which it did not.  The Z axis carrier on the right side of the X gantry is attached with a screw and T-nut 2mm from the very end of the extrusion so I had to shave 3mm of material from the inside T-slot guide.  I tried once again to use kmxs's threaded part, but my X axis belt on the Tronxy was even tighter than the Y axis belts on my Sovol, so I'm using JOGIAREA's long threaded piece with slite modifications.  There was just shy of 1mm clearance between the Tronxy's idler roller and JOGIAREA's threaded part, so I ended up adding a .45mm flat to both inside walls.  I also replaced one of the nut cut-outs with a round hole to fit the button head screw that held the idler roller to the old steel bracket.  The tensioning nut is directly taken from kmxs's model without change.

Shortened the extrusion guide on the inside so it wouldn't conflict with the T-Nut on the back side of the X axis extrusion.