I really like the look of the Mini Stealhburner, but I dont like its weak cooling performance on my Voron 0.2.
This printer is capable of printing fast - especially with a CHT nozzle.
But overhangs, bridges and the back side of parts were always looking bad because of sagging of the still too hot plastic.
So I designed a 4040 blower fan mod to archieve better part cooling results.
It was quite a challenge to fit theses bigger fans into the the limited space without redesigning other parts. So a few compromises had to be done and I am happy with the result :)
For a side by side comparision, check this video:
Whats included:
A “blank” model (no 3 stripe voron logo) for simple print and use (StealthChiller_v1.3_blank.stl)
A “normal” model, where you can use the original voron 3 stripe logo parts and glue in place (StealthChiller_v1.3_glued_logo.stl)
A “print in place” model, for all the folks out there with tool/filament changing systems to print the 3 stripes directly in place (StealthChiller_v1.3_printinplace_base.stl plus its 3 logo parts)
Advantages:
Only one part has to be printed
All other printed parts, extruder gears, bearings, screws etc. can be used further (saves money and no unnecessary waste of plastic or power for printing)
Significantly improved cooling performance (watch the side by side video and pictures to get an impression
No loss of the print volume
Parts needed:
Only one part has to be printed
2x 4010 fans are needed (which will obviously reaplace the original 3010 fans)
2x M3x8mm BHCS screws are needed (that will replace two M3x10 BHCS scews)
Print the front part (Front Cowling), preferably in ASA/ABS or any temperature resistant material
Assemble the rest like you would do on the Mini Stealthburner
To connect the front part (Front Cowling) to the “Extruder Midbody”, use M3x8mm BHCS screws. The original 10mm screws beeing too long and would collide with the fan.
Cut off plastic parts from one 4010 blower fan and secure the power wires with a drop of hot glue (see pictures)
Cut off plastic parts from one 3010 axial fan and secure the power wires with a drop of hot glue (see pictures)
Insert the right 4010 blower fan (looking from the back its the left one)
Insert the modified 3010 axial fan
Insert the left 4010 blower fan (looking from the back its the right one)
Optionally: Insert the NozzleLEDs and secure them with a drop of hot glue
Attach your hotend to its braket and istall the PTFE tube
Guide the cables through the hotend braket (see pictures)
Tilt the hotend assembly so that you can insert to PTFE tube into the hole
Push the hotend assembly to its place
Guide the wires to the side to attach them with some zip tie - Do not tighten it yet. Its better to do this after you checked the fit of it
Wire everything like you would do on the original Voron 0.
Enjoy better part cooling and share this, if you like it :)
Recommended fans:
3010 axial fan: Delta fan 3010 24V 0.08A AFB0324HA
Credits goes out to everyone from Voron Design who did an awesome job on designing this printer!
Update:
As I received quite inpolite messages, I unfortunatly have to clarify something :(
First off all: I wanted to share my design to you guys for improving your 3D printers.
One thing that annoyed me was the direct messages I had to read. Some of which were quite rude and written with questionable manners. For all your angry people out there: I created this model and made it public to give you an option to improve your 3D printers performance - completeley for free.
I dont understand why there is any need for beeing rude about something you get for free. Also the "teachings" about "you have to change your licence to GPLv3" beeing superfluous. I created this model on my own from scratch and I dont HAVE to do anything with this model. Not even sharing it.