I was wanting a resaw featherboard for my Rikon bandsaw. The saw has ¾" t-slots. I made two different T's that fit snugly. One has printed ¼-20 threads and the other has a hex in the bottom for a ¼-20 Nylock (choose one). I wanted the threaded rod, about 6 ½" bought from Home Depot, to stay put in the t-slot. The knurled knob uses a standard ¼-20 nut pushed in the hex inside. The cap slips in on top. To take off top just screw in a thread far enough to push it off. I used a steel washer between the knob and the base to prevent plastic on plastic. The ¾" T's also fit my Ridgid table saw.
The Base: I felt I needed a side foot for two reasons. One, better adhesion on the plate. Two, thinking there may be better support for any side force when resawing. Though the base stayed flat on the plate there was still a bow on the bottom. I sanded the base with a sheet of 60 grit sandpaper on the workbench. That only took a few minutes. I found some 1/16" rubber sheet that I cut pieces to superglue on the ends (pictured). This compensated for any small bow left and gave better grip to the metal saw surface, I also sanded the rubber surface with fine sandpaper. I used 3/16" sheet rubber bought from Amazon for the feather. A little bit of soapy water helped slide the rubber in the slot, made it a little too tight. I marked the holes, pulled out the rubber and used a ¼" hollow hole punch to make the holes. $10 at Harbor Freight Tools. The three screws are 5mm x 20mm long, plastic is threaded on wide side. If plastic strips use longer screw and nut. Base took 18Hours 16Minutes on my Sunlu S8.
Settings: Designed with Tinkercad, Generic PLA, 0.2 layer height, 25% infill, 0.12 on sides and ends, no supports - for base and knob. For "T's" 40% infill, supports on nut version only.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.