Elegoo Neptune 3 pro plus max Volcano Hotend Upgrade
Description
PDF2023-09-12 version 3: moved the probe so that it can be adjusted without disassembling the entire shroud. Added both the Bambuslicer and the stl files. Lately I attached a heat sink to the front servo (https://amzn.eu/d/e68hmoo) because I noticed it becomes warm on long prints and high speeds. It also looks nicer. I will post a picture of it.
2023-09-03: added Volcano Blower_generic_v2.stl to adjust the probe height and have more leeway for z-offset. Use this version!
2023-08-31: tested with klipper on the Neptune Max. Works like a charm also with Input Shaping and Linear Advance
DISCLAIMER: THIS MOD MIGHT INVALIDATE ANY WARRANTY ON YOUR PRINTER. IF YOU DECIDE TO DO IT, IT IS YOUR DECISION AND I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ISSUE OR DAMAGE YOU OR ANYBODY MIGHT ENCOUNTER WHATSOEVER.
This is my take to the Neptune 3 pro/plus/max hotend shroud, to accomodate for the longer heater block of a volcano hotend.
With this you can print at very high speed (100-120mm/sec) with very large nozzle (1 and 1.2mm), without running into extrusion issues. With such large layer height (0.8 or 1mm), you dont need linear advance and input shaping, because the print is much more forgiving thanks to the sheer amount of material you extrude.
It works like a charm, and reuses all stock components, except the actual volcano heater block, the two 5015 fans and two M5 screws for the fans.
It works with the STOCK FIRMWARE too!!!
Actually you should keep the fans not higher than 70% during print, or they will cool the nozzle too much (!!!) and cause thermal runaway error. I printed the small bucket in the picture with a 1mm nozzle at 0.8 layer height at 100mm/s in 10 minutes and my full size head in 5 hours!
You can use these components (affiliate links - please support me), but any similar will work:
Volcano nozzles various sizes up to 1.2mm
Additional heatbreaks (not necessarily needed - read below)
READ CAREFULLY:
- Print the fan holder. I used the 45 degree angle because it helped reducing the supports. I printed it in ASA with the Bambulab, but you can print it also with the Neptune, also in PLA or PETG because it stays fairly away from the nozzle and there is no risk of melting.
- Disassemble the stock extruder and heatsink, following youtube videos that explain how to install an all metal heatbreak (eg. search “All-Metal Hotend Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, Plus & Max”).
- Before you start assembling, set the Z-offset to 0 on the printer from the “Level” menu.
- Use only the heatblock, silicon socket and heatbreak from the Volcano clone: you don't need the other components!
- Reuse the stock heater cartridge, thermistor and heatsink. You have to tuck the stock thermistor inside the small channel in the volcano heater block. It doesnt fit exactly but ultimately it works. I didn't use conductive paste but probably it helps.
- Fasten the heaterblock to the heatsink. I used a different heatbreak because I inadvertitely snapped the one that came with the Volcano clone. Nevertheless, you cannot use the stock PTFE lined heatbreak, because it is glued to the stock heater block (:/). Cut a piece of PTFE just to ease the passage of the filament (as shown in the youtube videos i linked above).
- Use only one screw to reinforce the connection between the heatblock and the heatsink, because both screws do not line up to the holes, but anyways it is plenty strong.
- EXTREMELY IMPORTANT: remind to unscrew the Bed Leveling probe from the stock position (one M3 screw in the back) and screw it to the fan holder as shown in the picture, due to the lower position of the nozzle. If earlier you forgot to set your Z-offset to 0 from the printer menu, now you can still do it with a “M851 Z0” from the terminal, don't do it from the printer menu or bad things will happen with the nozzle hitting the bed. If you don't know how to use the terminal, remove the heaterblock from the printer and access the “Level” menu from the touch screen, to set the Z-offset to 0. IF YOU FORGET TO MOVE THE PROBE OR TO CHANGE THE Z-OFFSET, THE NOZZLE WILL SLAM IN YOU BED ON THE FIRST HOMING YOU DO!!!
- Once everything is installed, remember to do a PID calibration (check youtube videos) and adjust the Z-offset from the printer menu “Level”. Due to the relocation of the probe, also the X-offset changes slightly but it is irrelevant and the stock value is perfectly ok.
Post your comment or makes!!!
Ciao
Tags
Model origin
The author remixed this model.
Differences of the remix compared to the original
Moved the blower ends to accomodate for a longer Volcano heat block and nozzle