The Adjustable Skadis Spacer

Let's talk about pegs. How do you feel about oblong holes? Is alignment important? Consistency for smooth insertion?
21
61
1
664
updated June 30, 2023

Description

PDF

Update 14 Jun 2023: I done goofed and mirrored when I should've copied. 3H2A is fixed now.

Usually, I write an extraordinarily stupid description for my 3D models.

And today is a usual day.

I have a lot of Skadis pegboards because I have been culturally brainwashed by Sweden. But at the same time: I am a very stupid man. In point of fact I am that absolute idiot, that cretin, that dumpster of a man, who goes “oh, hmm, these standoffs are too long!” But that's not all. Yr humble correspondent sometimes manages also to be that fool who says “oh, hmm, these standoffs are too short!”.

But sometimes you need a fool to ask a really critical question.

What if the same standoff could be too tall or too short at the same time?

Enter the Adjustable Skadis Spacer.

Stop laughing. Start printing.

--

If you've got a problem, we've got an ASS that can solve it. As long as that problem is “my pegboard is not pristinely flat”. Or maybe “my other thing with M4 mounting screws is not pristinely flat”. Other stuff? I got nothing. But anyway:

  • The 0H1A just acts as a non-load-bearing spacer against the wall.
  • The 1H1A lets you screw your ASS into the wall and anchor your Skadis at whatever height you need.
  • The 1H2A is…a little scary. But I think it's OK. Two anchors, one screw. I wouldn't use it for heavy lourdes, but it's probably fine, and will probably help keep things aligned.
  • The 2H1A is the 1H1A, but moreso. Two screws, one anchor, your pegboard will probably rip before the anchor does ('specially if it's PETG).
  • The 3H2A is the good version of the 1H2A, giving you three separate screws for joining your boards. Of course, you pay for it. Drywall anchors ain't cheap.

It comes in a pretty broad array of sizes by default: 6mm, 10mm, and 14mm standoffs (and similarly sized knobs). These are all from an offset of 5mm, so--well, I assume you can do math. With a 14mm standoff and a 14mm knob, you can get a 30mm clearance from the wall pretty easily, and honestly I don't think I'd trust it even that far. But you have the choice in how you fail, if you wanna get long.

If you stick to the 10mm screws, I've had good luck. My tool pegboards have about 30 pounds on each segment and the standoffs, printed in PLA. Once they're up, they have no complaints; that said, with PLA you do run the risk of snapping the standoffs if you torque too hard with the screws as you're setting it up. PETG seems more forgiving in that regard, though if you go slow and don't drive the screws too hard it's probably fine. Or you could be the most tryhard of tryhards and go with threaded inserts. (Probably don't do this.)

Later update: PLA+ will occasionally snap the anchor later, even after the board is up. Makes a hell of a noise. I recommend PETG across the board now.

For optimal results, print it in Cura with Slicing Tolerance set to ‘Exclusive’. PrusaSlicer might have some problems with it. Consult this video to learn more on what Slicing Tolerance actually does for you.

--

I want something witty to finish this off, but I don't have much. Get ASS, I guess? But don't eat it. Even PLA isn't good for you.

Please note: all my Printables models that are not a remix of others' work are licensed CC-BY-NC-SA. Commercial usage is available upon request; please reach out via email.

Tags



Model origin

The author marked this model as their own original creation.

License