Voronized Stands for Nextube

A long time ago I put a shelf on the wall behind my monitors, and since have picked up bigger monitors. When I finally got my kickstarter Nextube, I was sad to discover that the new height gap between the shelf and top of my monitors made it so I couldn't see the clock properly.

I put it on a random little box.

Then one night I said "I should print something for that!"

The result was "Nextube Base" which was just a desire to play with voronization. It had a fun effect and wasn't terribly horrible to print (the one printed in marble), but wasn't really exactly what I wanted. Looking at it I then thought "I can make this even more difficult!"

The result from there was "Nextube Riser," a shape matching the outer profile of the Nextube with a little brim that will take the clock with it's rubber feet still in place and elevate it exactly enough so as I sit in a relaxed position at my desk the clock is right where it needs to be.

But I had to make it more challenging.

Wanting to mimic the wood and brass colors of the clock, I decided to split the thing in to an inner gold layer and outer wood layer, then glue it together. Flip the pieces on their top so the brim is on your print bed and run with tree supports (I used 65' and it was easy enough to remove without damaging the model). On this version, if you want the clock perfectly flush to the riser, you'll have to remove (or move inward) the rubber feet on the clock.

I wanted and would suggest .12 resolution but accidentally started my print at .2. The end result took quite a bit of cleanup with a file, knife, and because of abundant stringing a blast from a hot air gun, but came out ok in the end.

The end result worked perfectly!

Print Settings

Printer: Ender 3

Supports: Yes

Resolution: .12 or .2

Infill: All walls

Filament: CCTree, Hatchbox PLA Marble, Silk Gold, Wood Brown

Notes:

If you use silk PLA, be gentle with it as it will be brittle. Carefully trim the outer edge of the inner piece and the inner edge of the outer piece so they'll fit together properly - there is some allowance built in to the model but not much. if you have to pull it back apart you'll probably break pieces of it.

Getting the profile

I wasn't sure how to make this, as the shape of the thing was a combination of unknown radii, so I cheated. I took the clock to my scanner. Opened that in Photoshop and made it a solid shape, exported that as a PNG then converted it to SVG online, then finally imported that in to Tinkercad (I know, I should just learn Fusion already...). Once I had that, I changed the outer dimensions to match what I knew with my caliper and drew circles around it until I was satisfied with the over-all profile. Printed a quick brim just to check the fit and it was dead-on, so I used that to make the shape to run through voronization.