Table clamp mount for USB Hub D-Link DUB-1340

This converts an old USB Hub (D-Link DUB-1340) I had laying around to a table clamp mount for the back of my desk.

Fits a desk that is 2.2 cm thick, with some adjustability. (That part of the CAD model is parametric, so it could be changed if needed.)

NOTE! The model preview doesn't work for the 3mf files, as it displays modifier volumes from the PrusaSlicer projects as solid blocks. In reality this is used to modify infill and ironing.

The original USB hub has a rather bright and annoying LED. I decided to not add a hole or light pipe for it. In fact I went as far as putting black paint on the LED to reduce the light. In the OnShape model there is some disabled geometry for a light pipe however, should you wish to modify it. The geometry for it is not tested to actually work and be printable however.

Hardware needed for assembly

• 2x M3 16 mm hex-head bolts
• 1x M3 10 mm hex-head bolt
• 3x M3 hex nuts
• 1x M10 35 mm hex-head bolt
• 1x M10 hex nut
• 4x self tapping screws extracted from the original enclosure of the hub

The M10 is overkill, but the only thing I could find at the required length with threads all the way to the head. M8 should work just fine (if you adjust the CAD model). M6 would probably work too.

Assembly instructions

1. Clean up the holes in the base for mounting the lid. I use sacrificial bridging over the holes, this needs to be cleaned out using a small flat bladed screw driver, or a small drill. Make sure it is a clearance fit for the self tapping screws.
2. Insert M10 hex nut into clamp. The fit is tight, so you may need to use the M10 bolt to pull it in.
3. Insert M3 nuts in the holes in the base. Use a M3 bolt if needed to help align and pull them in.
4. Mount clamp to body using M3 bolts, the longer two goes in the two lower holes, the shorter one in the upper hole.
5. Insert circuit board. It needs to go in with the USB A ports first and then the back swings down. Note that it is mounted the opposite way to the original enclosure (with the USB ports on the top side instead of the bottom side).
6. Mount lid to base using the original self tapping screws. Apply a lot of pressure so that you don't cam out and strip the heads.
7. Thread in the M10 bolt from below.
8. Put the foot on the M10 bolt. It should be a loose, running, fit.
9. Mount to table.

Printing notes

Printing should be relatively straight forward. Support may be needed for some of the overhangs if you want to get a good finish. I recommend the new organic supports in PrusaSlicer 2.6 for this, enabled on build plate only. The bottom holes in the base don't need supports as they use sacrificial bridging.

The foot should be printed with 100 % infill in the area directly below the bolt hole, this can be accomplished with a modifier volume. It will be under a lot of compressive load.

The clamp and parts of the base are under quite a lot of load as well, so 3 or more perimeters with a 0.6 mm nozzle is recommended. Increase the bottom and top infills as well to match in thickness. These will need to be adjusted to a larger number if using a more traditional 0.4 mm nozzle.

Software & model files

• Printed in Prusament Jet Black PLA on a Prusa MK3s with a 0.6 mm nozzle.
• Sliced using PrusaSlicer 2.6.0-beta3.
• Modelled using OnShape (first time using it): Source document
• STEP file can be downloaded below as well.