Orbiter 2.0 mount for Tronxy XY-2 Pro

Good morning All ! 

Here is a bracket to mount an Orbiter V2.0 direct drive extruder to a Tronxy XY-2 Pro. 

The orbiter is a very interesting, lightweight and low cost extruder. You can find more information about it here : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5168611 and on the official site here : https://www.orbiterprojects.com/orbiter-v2-0/ 

Disclaimer : My orbiter is a clone from an AliExpress seller that does not exist anymore. I encourage you therefore to double check the screws placement on the mount to make sur it fits with your extruder correctly. I attached the STL, STP and all Solidworks files so you can modify anything you need if you need to ! 

My mount uses the standard backplate on the XY-2 Pro.

Printing instructions : 

• Print lying upside down, see picture of the mount on the bed of my printer. I just started using solidworks so correcting this myself in the files beforehand is not yet an option. 
• Use PETG or a more heat resistant material (ABS, ASA, Nylon, etc). PLA will probably deform/droop over time. 
• I think I used 0.25mm layers, adaptive from 0.20 to 0.30, with a 0.6mm nozzle. I think anything 0.3mm layer or below should work fine. The features are not too small. 
• I used 50% infill, gyroid. 
• Printing at 240C, bed at 80C, no chamber. 

Material required for assembly : 

• Tronxy XY-2 Pro printer with included backplate. Extruder optional ! 
• Orbiter V2 Extruder including pancake motor. With or without filament sensor ( I did not use one for the moment).
• 2mm and 2.5mm allen keys
• 2x M3 nuts
• 2x M3x12mm socket head OR button head screws
• Ideally : 1x M3x6mm button head screw
• 2x M3x8mm button head screw (3x if you don't have a 6mm long one)
• Needle file and/or 3mm drill bit to clean the mounting holes.
• Small flat file to clean out the nut holes

Instructions : (I'm going from memory, if anything seems wrong hit me up)

1. Before disassembling your printer : 
   1. Procure the required materials
   2. Make sure your orbiter is properly assembled 
      1. See the official site here (section 5) for important information : https://www.orbiterprojects.com/orbiter-v2-0/
      2. On mine, I had to add locktite and secure the grub screw holding the main drive gear on the motor shaft. You can access it through the bottom or by opening the side “door” with the secondary drive gear. 
      3. I also had to add locktite and set the correct height for the filament exit guide. again, please refer to the orbiter official site for more precise instructions. 
   3. Print the mount (see printing instruction).
   4. Once you have the mount printed, start by cleaning out the vertical mounting holes with a needle file or a 3mm (1/8in) drill bit. 
   5. Insert the two 3mm nuts in the front of the mount. Push them in using the 2mm allen key if necessary. You should see them align with the mounting holes on the top.
   6. Unload any filament in your hot end.
   7. Let your hot end cool down.
   8. Power off your printer. 
2. Alright, for all the marbles : 
   1. Remove the bowden tube from your extruder (at the back left of the printer). 
   2. Feed the bowden tube through the mount and slide the mount into place. If the bowden is a bit tight or won't pass through at all, file the passing hole on the mount slightly, you probably have a little bit of elephant's foot clogging the hole. The mounting holes should align with 3 threaded M3 holes on the backplate. The lip at the back should sit on the edge of the backplate. On the pictures, my bowden tube is already cut down. I recommend leaving it full length for now and trimming it later. If you insist to trim yours before feeding it through, make sure you leave a good length over the heatsink. I think you need at least 50mm over the pneumatic fitting, but leave more than enough for now. 
   3. Secure the mount to the back plate using a 6mm M3 screw for the left mount and two 8mm screws for the other ones. If you do not have a 6mm screw, a 8mm screw should fit, but make sure it does not contact the 20x20 extrusion on the back and the carriage moves freely. See pictures, it is a close fit. 
   4. At this step, make sure your carriage can reach the limit switch for X on the left of the printer. The mount is thinner on this side specifically to allow clearance for this, but double check just in case. You need to hear the switch click before you hit into anything else. 
   5. Cut the bowden tube to length. Measure the inside of your orbiter from the bottom to see how long you should leave it. I had to cut it at about 7.5 mm. I recommend cutting a bit long and sneaking to the perfect length by cutting it little by little until the extruder sits flat on the mount. The longer the bowden, the less play you have inside the extruder for the filament to bend or get caught. Make sur you cut as straight and clean as possible. DO NOT USE CUTTERS/PLIERS to cut the filament as they will crush the tube and render it unusable. Use a fresh, sharp blade on a knife or a tool specifically made to cut plastic tubing. Sometimes you get one free when buying a bowden tube. Elsewise, there are models here you can print to fit a razor blade in for this purpose. 
   6. Secure the orbiter from the top with two M3x12mm screws. The screws should be loose in the plastic and thread only in the captured nuts. Tight it carefully, snug but not the harder you can go so the nuts don't spin in their spots. 
   7. Add a little piece of bowden tube on the top the extruder to help guide the filament if you wish to. I don't know if it is necessary! 
   8. At this point, you should plug your extruder in the daughter board on the back of the left vertical support beam and test to see if everything is working as intended. 
      1. Do not cable manage anything yet. 
      2. Power on you printer and preheat your nozzle. 
      3. Test motion on your extruder. Up and down. Keep in mind that the speed and length of the move might be off, as the e-steps are not calibrated yet. It should however, turn in the right direction. 
   9. While you are heated and ready to extrude, I would suggest loading filament manually and calibrating your e-steps. Please research an appropriate source of information for this process. 
   10. You would have noticed that you did not remove any part of the hot end during this process, so you should not need to recheck your level and z offset.
   11. Now you should have a fully functional orbiter extruder ! Time to cable manage to make it look neat. Since my motor did not have a proper connector on the motor side and because I ran the printer with the wires dangling off for a while, my wire looked about to break. So I added a hook on the mount to secure the whole umbilical. I also added a drop of hot glue to protect the wires, we'll see if it melts back and I need to replace it with epoxy. If you cable manage well before starting to print, you should not need to do this.