A smaller Collapsible Light Saber with twist lock blade retainer.
Easier to print, 180mm extends to 900mm
New blade design extends to a consistent length and blades can be fitted if they're not perfect.
!! Important: !! Blade models are solid and must be printed in "vase mode" or " spiralize outer contour " with a .9mm line width and no top or bottom layers. !!!
If you scale it up or down, scale the wall thickness of the blades the same percentage.
If the walls are too thick, you will have to sand/file down the inside edge of the narrow end and the outside edge of the wide end. Put the blades together backwards(both ways) to check the fit. If the walls are too thin they won't hold together.
Important: When the blades get stuck, follow this procedure,
https://youtube.com/shorts/cNs7KsuQ1GQ?si=yEVnQdy6z1XvPIeC
I have only used PLA and found that filament varies greatly. some have terrible layer adhesion and the "retainer cap" would just break apart, most filaments work fine.
To assemble, put 3 retainer tabs in the retainer cap and make sure they pivot freely. Hold it in your palm and point the tabs inward (closed position). Line up the switch on the hilt with a pin on one of the tabs and jam it together. If the twist mechanism is sticky, put a little petroleum jelly in the 6 little notches on the hilt.
No supports are needed if the “wall ordering” in your slicer is "inside to outside"
There are two types of hilt, one is inscribed with "may the force be with you'
There are two types of “retainer cap”. The original one needs two hands to operate and clicks into place. the other does not.
There are also two types of end caps. one makes a faint whistle as the blades deploy.
Note; the size of the hole on the tip of the last blade will determine the speed that the blades deploy. If you use the "Whistle cap" you want a small hole so the air goes through the whistle.
The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.