Ender 5 Triple Z (E5TZ) V2

Instructions included - see downloads page

Second generation of the Ender 5 Triple Z upgrade!

Features:

• Retains original bed hardware including carrier plate, heated bed and rear Z assembly
• Incredibly rigid, both in the XY and also Z directions
• Easier to assemble compared to V1
• Doesn't block access to the printer through the front like almost all dual Z upgrades
• Individually controlled leadscrews allow for some slight bed tilt leveling
• Modular design, only the motor mounts and bed side pieces need to be replaced for a different mechanism (belted Z anyone?)
• Support for oldham couplers like these

Improvements from V1:

• More rigid in Z direction because of no arm flex
• Moving z motors away from corners so corner brackets can be used

BOM (for complete rebuild, if you have V1 you have most of these so only buy what's missing):

• 10x M5x12 BHCS
• 8x M5x8 BHCS
• 4x M5 drop in/slide in nuts
• 2x M4 nuts
• 14x M5 T nuts
• 1x 360mm 2020 extrusion - you can cut this yourself with a hacksaw, doesn't need to be too accurate
• (optional) 2x oldham couplers (search for oldham coupler ender 3)
• 8x heatset inserts M3x4 (4x if using oldham couplers)
• 8x M3x8 BHCS (4x if using oldham couplers)
• 8x M3x10 BHCS(12x if using oldham couplers)
• 4x M3 nylock nuts if using oldham couplers
• 2x 350mm T8x4 lead screw
• 2x 8mm to 5mm couplers
• 2x Nema 17 steppers and cables
• (if needed) 2x stepper motor splitters

Part printing:

Use the preset plates, all the parts are arranged and orientated not to need supports. They fit onto a stock ender 5 220x220mm bed.

PETG is recommended, 40% infill, 3 perimeters, 0.2mm layer height

If you’re using Zero G electronics, use this https://www.printables.com/model/519670-compact-zerog-din-bracket-mod

Building notes:

Tip: aligning the lead screws will make the screws run much smoother. You can vary the tightness of the screws on the motors to tilt them slightly. If the lead screw is leaning too far left, you can tighten the screws on the left more than the ones on the right to tilt it back. Same applies for all other directions. 

To save on heatset inserts and screws, if you are using oldham couplers, only use heatset inserts in these blue highlighted holes:

IMPORTANT: make sure the FRONT arrow points to the FRONT. It will NOT FIT if you attach it backwards

You will need 2 new leveling knobs. Put two M4 nuts into the nut trap under it. Optionally you can replace all of them for better looks.

The motor mounts need to be 55mm away from the front extrusion. You can print the included bottom_install_spacer to make it easier. The same distance is used for both sides.

More information on the changes from V1 to V2

I have decided to remove the linear bearings and 8mm rods completely. This was for a few reasons:

1. The rods aren't that rigid, I tested them on V2 and it didn't provide noticeably more rigidity than without the rods. 
2. Printed part inaccuracies are accounted for with the oldham coupler for the leadscrew nut, however inaccuracies didn't account for the smooth rod. For me this was minor but for some it would result in binding.
3. Much easier assembly :) 

The reason I used rods and bearings on V1 was that the arms could slide slightly on the bed carrier and the rods helped the arms to stay in place. V2 grabs the bed frame on many sides so that no movement whatsoever happens. This results in the whole Z assembly (stock parts + additions) into one solid part with no chance of sliding around. The stock printer uses 2x 10mm rods which are very rigid and provide enough rigidity for the whole moving Z assembly. Actually, the bed doesn't even move in the XY plane. The only slight movement was due to my (due to be replaced) bed springs and the entire frame bending slightly! 

About the bed stability in Z, it is almost infinitely more rigid than V1. I couldn't even get it to move at all by hand, compared to the 0.5-1mm with V1 due to arm flex and >5mm when stock.

So, TL;DR: forget about the Z rods and bearings, V2 is so rigid you don't need them.

Here's a video of it, the plastic parts are old versions with unused linear rod and bearing holders. I will upload those ones (not guaranteed to work with rods) and the final versions without the rod holders at all.

Suggested print orientation: