I didn't like the CR-10 control box so I made an all in one box out of a mix of wood and 3d printed parts.
I have a CNC machine so I used the box gadget in Vcarve Pro to make the baltic birch box. ( CNC details at bottom of page )
I ended up going with a top mounted control box for now. I made a ribbon cable long enough to reach and have not had any issues with the LCD.
I made two versions but only printed the half one with no back. So the full sized with a back is not tested.
The only other thing is it does not fit like a glove on the 2020 extrusion. Needs to be slightly tweaked but I just make it work.
Case mounting screws are low profile m5 with m5 t-nut
PI/Touchscreen and LCD screws are m3
Two versions - half version and full with back.
Holds stock CR-10 12864 screen and fitted for Inno-Maker 3.5 Touch Screen docked on Raspberry PI 3 Model B
Requires a longer 10wire ribbon cable
Holds stock CR-10 LCD and also Raspberry PI with Inno-Maker 3.5" touchscreen for running OctoDash - you need to print the PI case to hold it inside the control box.
NOTE: the screw nubs on the inside of the case are larger than a 3mm screw. I ended having to drill out to 4mm and put a 3mm brass inserts in. I would probably revise it so that brass inserts are not needed - i.e. make nub holes 3.25mm to accept a 3mm screw.
Uses Fysetc Mini 12864 LCD and the Inno-Maker 3.5 touchscreen but the pi is remotely mounted so would need to use a extension header ribbon cable.
I did test the PI 3 Model B with Inno-Maker 3.5 LCD and a 20cm header extension and it worked. Inno-Maker said may have to make a change to clock speed but worked just fine for me.
The reason for the PI ribbon header is to have the PI mounted inside the case and cut a slot in the bottom front or front and run it to the screen mounted in the case.
This control box does not have a mounting system for the touch screen. I was just going to place the screen and then hit the corners with some hot glue to hold it in place. Or redesign it with hold down tabs.
Also, I never tested the Fysetc Mini 12864 with the Ezboard Lite but Fysetc did provide schematics for wiring it up and also detailed the needed firmware changes if using the Unified Firmware.
Details can be found at the git hub: (https://github.com/FYSETC/FYSETC-Mini-12864-Panel/tree/master/examples/TH3D-EZBOARD)
Raspberry PI 3 Model B - https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01N13X8V1
12v to 5v Stepdown for PI Power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEESLZ6/
Inno-Maker 3.5 Touchscreen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCP6QGS
Octodash - https://unchartedbull.github.io/OctoDash/index.html
I did have problems getting the screen to work initially as the Inno-Maker instructions are not accurate. If someone goes this route message me and I will explain what I did if you cannot figure it out.
Raspberry PI Header Extension Ribbon Cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CGM83QL
If you want to use the small form factor control box with the Fysetc Mini 12864 LCD this is the ribbon cable I tested and it worked with the Inno-Maker 3.5
Up/Down Angle USB connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F7Y21GW
Micro USB Extension Right Angle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4FDVNN
EzBoard Lite - https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/ezboard-lite/
10 Wire Ribbon Cable - https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Pro-Meters-1-27mm-Conductors/dp/B08435GF42
10 Wire Ribbon Cable connectors - https://www.amazon.com/Antrader-10-Pack-FC-10P-Sockets-Connector/dp/B07S1NFG4S
Noctua 60mm Fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VXTANZ4
I used this to cool the EzBoard Lite. Wired directly to PSU so it runs all of the time.
Mosfet - https://www.th3dstudio.com/product/high-amp-12v-24v-mosfet-heated-bed-or-hotend/
SD Card Extension - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHN83NJ
I did notice this didn't want to click and stay in on my Ezboard Lite. I ended up ordering the creatlity one off of Amazon but have not tried it yet. What I eneded up doing was putting the Lanmu into the slot and then taped it in with kapton tape.
PCB board stand off and screws - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7BY1D6 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7828LC
Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VTLJS18
M3 bolts - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J7NM9JA
M5 bolts - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9HUYHQ/
M5 T Nuts - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FOC6A8E
4x3/8 Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws (used for the power panel on the back of the box) - Local Ace Hardware or Big Box
8 x 3/8 Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws (used for holding down the plates for the control board, mosfet, fans, power supply and cable ties.)
Local Ace Hardware or Big Box
Fysetc Mini 12864 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08K8GHGDP
CAD Software I used for making the wood control box - https://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-pro
Using Box Gadget - https://gadgets.vectric.com/V9/box_creator.html
CNC Machine I used : https://cnc4newbie.com/store/en/new-carve-cnc-p104/
CNC Controller I used: https://openbuildspartstore.com/blackbox-motion-control-system/
CNC Machine Interface Software I used: https://software.openbuilds.com/
Printer Brand:
Creality
Printer:
CR-10 Mini
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.2
Infill:
20%
Filament: Hatchbox PLA
black
Notes:
Any material does the trick.
Category: 3D Printer AccessoriesThe author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.