N-AR Foam Dart Blaster

These are the beta files for the N-AR full auto foam dart blaster. It fires short darts from talon mags. The faux bolt cycles with the pusher and with the charging handle.

The build is based on the following screws and springs, Not sure how many screws and I'm not counting but like 30 to 40 of the 3-24 x 3/8, 5 or so of the 3-24 x 5/8, and a couple of the 4-20's.

Steel Thread Rolling Screw for Plastic, Black Zinc Plated, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, #4-20 Thread Size, 3/4" Length

Steel Thread Rolling Screw for Plastic, Black Oxide Finish, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, #3-24 Thread Size, 3/8" Length

Steel Thread Rolling Screw for Plastic, Zinc Plated, Pan Head, Phillips Drive, #3-24 Thread Size, 5/8" Length

You need a big bolt and nut to attach the buffer tube to the lower, I am not sure the size but around 6mm or so by 30mm.

The springs are from a set on amazon I will attach a pic of the set, The hole for the charging handle spring is 6mm and needs ext spring 44mm long. The pusher spring is approx 7mm x 37mm. The spring/springs for the mag release actuator are not in the set. it/they must have a 7mm ID. The little spring for the selector pin is from a pen.

You will need 3 TEZOU 21a switches(omron may not fit without filing), You may need to shave the tezou's a bit to get them in the lower.

You need a tt gearbox ( the blue 1 to 90 ratio metal geared one is best ).

You need a small volt meter

You will need 130 motors and flywheels.

I will include pics of the build showing everything you should need to know to build this. Don't worry It's not hard, But also not for a first build. I think all the kinks are out so there is little to no sanding/filing needed but you know shit happens and things slip by...lol

16 gauge silicone wire was used but 14 would be easier to assemble.

NOTE...The switches are held in by friction at first, test everything before assembling the upper and lower receivers. Right before final assembly pump some hot glue into the mess of wires at the rear of the lower after that once assembled Its golden, and removable if needed in the future. The flange screw in the back of the upper is to keep the pusher from being pulled out when u charge it to hard.

The most frustrating part is the wires through the upper charging handle. I did it in the following order... 1. Install charging handle and spring.2. Install pusher and spring (make sure the charging handle engages the pusher spring screw), 3. faux bolt carrier, 4 push wires from front to rear. It is tight with 16 but will work. The secret is to get the wires on opposite sides of the pusher spring for least friction. or use a smaller spring. Don't forget the flange screw to keep the pusher in. If you forget it you will stretch the charging handle spring and pop the pusher out place if you charge it hard.

The sights, grip, and optic files are not included.

NOTE....There are supports built into the upper and lower receivers, These are triangles on a few of the 90 degree angles. They are .5 mm thick and not hard to remove

I have included the parts for my U.M.B. and pirate builds as well as a blank version. NOTE>>> if you use the emblem inlay for the U.M.B. it will need filing to fit. The HERA stock top is attached using pieces of filament as pins. The optional pieces hold a couple 3mm led's if you want to light up the helix.

If you want assembly Pictures… https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5649157