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UPDATE:
Model for BTT TFT50 PI SCREEN V2.1 ADDED!! LATEST VERSION!!
IMPORTANT NOTE!!!
The newer V2.1 screens have 3 buttons instead of a switch & brightness wheel. This case in its current form is not designed for those buttons. You can either cut a hole with a Dremel tool or add a negative volume in the slicer to open up the area you need.
DO NOT leave a bad review because you got a v2.1 screen & realised this case is for V2.0
Here's the new KlipperScreen case for the BTT TFT50 V2 DSI screen. It's only 8mm wider than the screen itself!!
It can be used open without the rear case half, with or without a Raspberry Pi directly onboard! Also with Klipper or OctoPrint
You have access to the brightness & rotation controls.
Also there's a cutout in the front to mount a 6 pin JST XH male connector so you can have a super easy plug & play experience when you need to use your accelerometer!
No messing around on the back for the right GPIO pins & crossing your fingers!
Speaking of GPIO pins, all of them can be utilised even with the rear cover in place. You can also use the onboard CSI for your Pi camera! There are large openings to allow extra cables in & out yet still remain totally hidden for that clean look!
There's two options for rear covers, regular & 90º USB. These kinda do what it says on the tin, take your pick! The 90º lets you access the USB 3 plugs with a 90º plug of the correct orientation.
Add a 5v 4010 fan to keep your Pi at 28ºc the whole print! If not the Pi will run at 50ºc which is no issue either.
SV01 Pro - If you're going to use this on the Pro I'd recommend you use the SV01 Pro rear case. This is because the Pro is not quite as tall the SV06 machines.
You will need!
1x BTT TFT50 V2 Pi DSI 5" Touchscreen
1x (Ideally) Raspberry Pi 4, maybe Rpi3 ***
1x 4010 5v axial fan
4x M2.5 6mm bolts for mounting the screen in the front case half
1x M2.5 10-12mm for the forth mounting corner above the brightness dial
4x M2.5 bolts (supplied with screen) to mount your Pi
3x M3 8mm Cap Head bolts for fitting the rear case half
4x M3 12mm Cap Head bolts for fitting the 4010 5v fan
2-3x M4 10-12mm Countersunk bolts for mounting the screen to your printer frame
3x M3 regular length heat inserts (recommend Ruthex!) for front screen case
4 x M3 SHORT length heat inserts (recommend Ruth!) for the rear fan mount
1x 6 Pin JST XH MALE connector for ADXL sensor port
Super Glue - to glue the USB port Cover on to the rear case
*** Other single board computers will also do but might well not fit inside the rear case properly. This unit was designed for a RPi4.
The Pi also doesn't need to be on the back of the screen if it doesn't fit, hide it inside the printer somewhere maybe.
Printing!
PLA+ recommended
0.2-0.3mm layer height.
Make sure your printer is set up well, you NEED accuracy here!
The front case half, print this upside-down on its front face with the mounting slots being highest points! Make sure your small perimeter speed is low for these.
Add supports on the 4 inside triangle mounting points so they print clean, don't let your slicer tell you it can bridge them, it can but they're better if supported!
Also this is VERY IMPORTANT!
Let your slicer determine the extrusion widths & set your perimeters to between 5-8 depending on your nozzle & layer height, more maybe.
Do this to MAKE SURE that the mounting bracket on the side is printed FULLY SOLID with no infill!! The is key to it's strength, don't leave a snarky review because you broke it because you forgot to do this!
The rear case, print on its flat outside face, no supports unless you're printing the SV01 Pro rear case, normal settings, Make sure it's accurate as tolerances are 0.20mm or less! Especially on the mounting bracket side!!
USB port cover - place on flat face - hit go!
Mounting bolt grommets, print standing upright, as many as you need.
Assembly!
Take all parts, add correct fitting heat inserts.
NOTE: on the front case the heat inserts go in the 3 inboard holes NOT the 4 outside ones!! See photo! DONT DO THIS WRONG!
ALSO: they go into the holes parallel with the sides of the case & NOT level with the angled top of the case. If the case is flat on the table the inserts go in at 90º to the table & sit inside the angle top!
Glue USB cover to correct side of the rear cover! You'll be sorry if you get that wrong. Make sure the mounting hole near it is not blocked!
Wire up your JST plug correctly & glue it into the slot in front case.
Here is where you have to be careful!
Take your screen unit & attach the supplied DSI screen ribbon cable, insert your SD CARD then add your Rpi (or not, optional) to the rear of the screen, attach the pi to the other end of the DSI cable & test it works with your build & SD card.
Power off. Now offer it up to the front case half, top edge first.
NOTE: Be very careful not to pinch the DSI ribbon cable or break the screen connector as you do this! Guide it in with your fingers, it will fit cleanly into the recess once the screen is fully seated & fixed.
Gently lower the brightness control dial & the rotation switch into the holes on the long top edge, once seated slowly lower the rear of the screen into the case.
NOTE: Please be VERY careful here, you need to flex the lower left edge of the case a tiny bit to allow the ribbon cables pass the lip & drop into their recessed seat below the front bezel, don't leave a snarky review because you trashed your screen because you weren't careful when doing this!
Flip the assembly over & insert all 4 of the M2.5mm 6mm bolts to secure the screen if you're not using a rear case, if you are using a rear case option insert 3 bolts but leave the top right corner bolt hole empty for now. The corner with only single hole.
Note: If you don't have or can't get a M2.5 10-12mm immediately you can use the forth bolt & still use the rear case - I made a recess in the rear case so it would still fit if there was a bolt there! …….You're welcome.
Add your cooling fan to the rear case & wire it in with a cable long enough not to snag when you remove the cover in the future.
Add any CSI cameras or sensor/relays or switches you need now.
Close the case halves carefully watching for pinched cables & anything blocking bolt holes. Add the 3 M3 8mm bolts to the holes with heat inserts under them.
Now here is were you need that M2.5 10-12mm bolt in the corner near the brightness control. Don't worry too much if you don't have one, it'll still be fine as is.
Add the mounting bolt grommets to the M4 bolts, attach them to your printer & then slot the completed screen assembly down onto them. The OG SV06 only uses the front & the top one, leaving the lower one empty. If the holes don't line up - that's why.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.