Satsana Dual 5015 Fan Duct for Ender 3 / CR-10

This is a new totally redesigned version of my popular Satsana fan duct for the Ender 3 and other compatible printers.

See my previous designs here:

• Satsana Ender 3 Fan Duct
• Satsana 5015 Fan Duct for Ender 3 / Ender 5 / CR-10

Dual 5015 Part Cooling Blowers

Hopefully this is obvious from the photos and images, but the primary update to this design is the addition of a second 5015 part cooling blower.

This is really more cooling then you should ever need. Actually in some cases this might cause two much airflow and result in problems creating bridges because the air starts blowing the filament down. In this case you can just reduce the fan speed in your slicer.

My second goal behind adding a second blower fan was better...

Hotend Nozzle Visibility

One aspect of my previous designs that I never liked was how the horizontal duct across the front created a large "chin" which made viewing the filament nozzle difficult. With this design my goal was to not block the view of the nozzle any more then is already blocked by the heater block.

No Slotted Mounting Holes

My last single 5015 duct had slotted holes to allow the position of the duct to be adjusted to account for different hotend and nozzle sizes.

While in concept I liked this adjustability, in practice I found it fiddley and annoying to have to reposition the duct any time it was removed.

So as an alternative this design incorporates...

Detachable Part Cooling Nozzles

The part cooling fan nozzles are printed and attached to the main duct body separately. There are a few benefits to this.

First this allows different nozzles sizes to be printed and replaced without having to reprint and reinstall the entire duct. I've included STLs of a range of nozzle heights here.

Second, performing maintenance on the hot end and heater block is much easier when the part cooling nozzles can be temporarily removed at set aside to make more space around the heater block.

Third, this also make it possible for others to remix and experiment with different nozzle designs with out having to reprint and reinstall the entire duct. I've included a blank "nozzle connection" STEP file to help facilitate this.

ABL Support

Probably the most requested feature and reason for people remixing my previous designs was to add support for an ABL sensor. So this round I figured I'd get ahead of that and add a version with an ABL mounting point from the git-go. This works with my CR touch and I think it should also work with a BL Touch.

Probe Offset

Here's what I've set my probe offset to in Marlin for my CR touch. A BL Touch or different nozzle may require different offsets from this.

#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -49.3, -8, -0.77 }

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.20

Infill:

Cubic 20%

Filament: Overture PETG

White

Notes:

Makes sure to orient the duct body so the back mounting surface is down towards the bed and it should not require any supports as long as your printer can handle a 45 deg overhang and a maximum 20 mm bridge.

The back edge of the nozzles have a chamfer that mates with a corresponding chamfer on the duct body. I find it's best to print the nozzles on their front face with this chamfer facing up.

Note that I've only included STLs for the right side nozzle here. I assumed people will be able to mirror this in their slicer to print the left side.

I printed my most recent duct in PETG, but I also had prototype versions printed in PLA installed for months without any issues.

I used 4 vertical and horizontal shells with 30% cubic infill. Also if using Prusa Slicer make sure to enable "Detect bridging perimeters". For some reason this as uncheck by default for me.

Overall it took my printer around 6.5 hours to print a duct body and two nozzles.

Post-Printing

Collect the required tools and parts shown in the image below.

Personally, using a pair of dual ball bearing 50mm WINSINN blowers. Just make sure you get 24v blowers, and not 12v or 5v.

Amazon Link

Remove the temporary brim from the printed duct

Clean up and install the part cooling fan nozzles. You may need to use a small file to clean up any boogers or imperfections. They should slide into place fairly easily. Note that the nozzles have a chamfer on the back edge.

Attach your ABL probe to duct if applicable.

Attach the duct to the printer. The right screw can be accessed through a small hole in the front of the duct body, and the left screw can be access through the opening for the left blower.

Install the left blower fan. Route the wires through the notch on the left side of the duct body.

Install the hotend cooling fan. Route the wires through the notch on the right side of the duct body.

Install the right blower. Route the wires through the same notch used in the previous step.

Split the part cooling power line to supply power to the 2nd blower fan. The fans should be wired in parallel. I created a separate splitter with dupont connectors, but there are a number of different ways you could do this.

Install zip ties at mounting points to retain wires.

For the final zip tie there are two options. One were the cables exit out towards the back at a 45 degree angle, and another where the exit straight up out of the top of the duct.

How I Designed This

Category: 3D Printer Accessories