Voron Stealthburner- Cheap Nozzle Camera Endoscope Mount

Watch your prints fail in incredible detail! After two entire iterations, here it is! 

I can't believe this monstrosity is the first thing I actually decide to share with the world. 

This allows the mounting of incredibly cheap USB endoscopes to the toolhead.

It is designed to accept 8mm endoscopes. It mounts using 2xM3 screws into the ADXL mounting holes on Stealthburner. Compatible with TAP. If you use an ADXL board, you should only need it when testing input shaper, and swapping is fairly easy.

I have no idea how long the camera will last, it is going to get hot. I have no idea the cable will last. It's clearly not designed for lots of motion. These specific ones I'm using are only going to give you 640x480px at 30fps.

I also don't particularly care. The camera is literally £5 delivered, lets not let the perfect be the enemy of the good! The investment is £5 and a 45min print, and is very fast to install and remove. 

This will allow people to very quickly and cheaply use this tool to help them do things like diagnose print issues, fine-tune first layer squish, or decide whether they want to invest in a pricier nozzle cam.

I'm going to daily-drive it for a while and keep you posted as to how long it lasts. See images for samples, bear in mind my SB LEDs stopped working a while ago for some reason, so all illumination is from the scope. 

Installation

You need:

• 7mm USB Endoscope (such as https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005120665782.html?)
• 1x M3x12mm CHSS
• 2x M3 16-20mm CHSS
• 1x M3 Heatset Insert (3 if you don't have the ADXL inserts installed)

1. Print the part. I used ABS, 3 perimeters (pretty certain that's actually solid), with the flat face on the bed, no supports needed.
2. Install a heatset insert into the small ‘Y inlet’
3. Plug your endoscope in to your RasPi or equivalent
4. Configure your camera in your software, I use Crowsnest with Mainsail until you can see things
5. Fit the mount to the toolhead using the ADXL mounting points. The bottom one uses a longer screw
6. Slide the scope into the socket and adjust the distance from the nozzle using the display. Unfortunately, the optimal focal point is too far away from the nozzle to be practical for clearances. I put it so it is flush with the end of the socket.
7. When you're happy, secure the scope by inserting an M3x20mm bolt into the Y inlet until it gently clamps the camera in place
8. Route the USB cable. How you do this depends on your setup and what you want. I just have mind cable tied to my umbilical. You could do the same with reverse bowden. If you're just using it for tuning, you can be even more janky with it!
9. Check your X-travel clearances before using it in anger
    

Compatibility

This has only been tested on a TAP-equipped Voron Trident with Stealthburner and Dragon HF hotend. 

It should work on any SB configuration, and hotends like the Revo will likely get you a better view of the nozzle, the heatblock is in the way on the Dragon!

Clearances on the X-axis should be tested. It's fine on the Trident, but just check before you sling it into the panel at 300mm/s! 
 

Design

I've made the STEP file available because I hate it when other don't, even though the geometry is a source of great shame. It was cobbled together in an hour or so on a friday night after a few drinks and contains loads of bad practises, artefacts, etc. 

This thing weighs about 15-20g fully loaded, which is either nothing or a massive problem depending on how much you like to tune your accelerations. If you're going for crazy accels, you probably scrolled on after seeing the picture. I run 3-4K accels and this has made no difference, even without retuning input shaper. 

This could easily be redesigned to reduce the hardware and weight. But again, I don't really see this being a long-term solution for use in a highly-tuned machine. There's better, but far more expensive options out there.

If you do modify this, I recommend just using reference geometry for the mounting holes and socket angle and rebuilding from scratch.