CRX / CR10V2 dual direct(?) drive extruder mount

Please be aware, that I am an amateur at CAD, this is still new to me and this was…my 3rd CAD project I've done? So expect design flaws!

And yes, I know the pics I have are ugly and possibly suspicious. I was up all night and was so eager to share the pics of it in the end! Didn't have time to make sure my pictures were super nice and appealing. 

So, what the heck is this?

This is a model I designed for my 3D printer to be able to have…I would call direct drive, into my CRX hotend on my heavily modified CR10S. I designed it specifically using a CRX X carriage plate, however the CR10V2 or the CR10S pro V2 share a similar back plate except there's one extra screw, so I added a hole for anyone wanting to use this model on those 3D printers. Though I can't guarantee this will work for other printers.

I wouldn't know if this is actually direct drive, because I kept getting told from others that direct drive is when it directly skips the bowden…but…I don't see how this isn't?? It's definitely not bowden because of how close it is to the nozzle! So that's up for debate.

And look, just don't judge me because I spent a lot of money to possibly waste £30 worth of TPU filament to get cleanish dual colored TPU printing. (Yes that was my end game goal)

Required parts

• 2x 42 23 NEMA 17 motors. (Any longer ones would be too big for the carriage to move next to the frames. Plus it's too heavy!)
• 2x Bondtech/knockoff extruders
• Some bowden tubing (Has to be an aesthetically pleasing color to match your style, not some ugly white tubing)

Print settings

Print vertically at a slight off angle. Make sure the screw holes for the main X carriage is touching the build plate or raft. Check the screenshots for how I've angled it up in Cura. :)

Use supports! I did, helped a lot make sure the screws holes weren't messed up. I used 65 degrees on my slicer but it depends on your printer. I did this with 20% infil and feels pretty solid when it's put together.

Installation

Remove the left hand wheel by using an 8mm spanner and an allen key. Remove the screw.

Slide the print onto the L shaped overhang from the left side until it reaches the hole for the screw (hopefully it's a snug fit!). Screw in the wheel again and viola!

I preferred installing the bowden tube for the extruders first and making sure they're the right size before installing them fully as it was hard to install them without doing so.

Calibrate your esteps, search up online how to do so, it's somewhat straight forward and easy. For me I went from 95 to 395 using these dual gear extruders, so if yours underextrudes a lot, this is probably why!