the100 "3-Way 235 Mod" by Duncan

NB
This is a WIP

Background:
Modern 3D printers are printing FAST nowdays.  But you don't have to spend a fortune on a Bamboo Labs top of the line printer.  Believe it or not, if you have a printer with a 235x235 bed (like an Ender 3) you can print a printer that can do a benchy in 3 minutes.
Check this out…
 

The100 is only 165x165, which many people find too small.  So I've designed a 235x235 version, meaning that once you've printed all your parts, you can dismantle your Ender 3 (or similar) and use the parts to build your own “the100”

Notes:
(1) I have published the BOM, which differs from the original significantly simply because I have changed a number of parts, and this necessitates some changes to the hardware.  You can find the BOM HERE:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ghvSJZ5dObsFfkXpstqoHU8pFyq8pb_MdBvQ4O6qkRQ/edit?usp=sharing
The BOM has a sheet which lists the lengths of the legs, lead screws and linear rods.  I am building with a z-height of 235, but feel free to choose your own z-height.

(2) Assembly: 
I have designed in 0.5mm of fit tolerance - trying to force equal sized pieces together is simply not possible. Please refer to the excellent videos put out by Max, the original creator of the100.  And join the Discord (search for “the100”)

(3) Printing:  
NB
Some of the parts are quite complex, and while they can easily be printed on an Ender 3 (this is what I'm printing my parts with), they do require a lot of supports.  Watch the supports video below before you waste time/effort/money on failed prints.  I have embossed each “confusing” piece with a “P” to indicate my suggested print orientation.

[Update]
 The Orca slicer has the best (ie most easily removed) supports - their “Slim Tree” supports are outstanding (better than Cura's).

Calibrate your printer:
If your printer isn't calibrated properly, nothing is going to fit.

Material choice:
Most people elect to print with PLA, both because it is easy to print, but also because it is probably the most rigid of the filaments.  If you plan to enclose your 3-Way 235 printer, then print the frame in ABS or ASA.

Walls & infill:
The strength/rigidity of a part is in the WALLS, not the infill.  Bumping up the infill percentage is just a waste of time and filament.  I recommend 2mm thick walls and 2mm top layers.  This gives a shell of 2mm.  Depending on your line widths and layer height, this works out as a LOT of wall and top/bottom layers.  I then just go with something like 12% to 15% grid infill.

How much filament?
This version of the100 uses fewer printed parts, so you will in all likelihood get away with only three kilograms of filament.  I'm using 2kg Fire Engine Red, and 1kg of Silver (Ironman colours…)

Print order:
You may, of course, print the parts in any order you wish, but I have numbered each of the “confusing” parts - i.e. those which look almost identical, which helps greatly in keeping track of what you've printed.  I've also added a “P” to indicate my suggested print orientation.

(4) The aluminium legs:
Ordinary hardware store aluminium angle is perfectly fine.  50 x 50 x 6mm is a very common size, and what I've used.  But you could use 40x40x3mm if you prefer.  The aluminium is many times stronger than the filament…  Should you still be working in imperial units, any similar size will suffice.  Once you have decided on a print height, cut the angle to length, overlay the leg drill guides on the angle and then use a punch to get the positions of the bolt holes perfect.  Length:  Refer to the length chart here:

BOM
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ghvSJZ5dObsFfkXpstqoHU8pFyq8pb_MdBvQ4O6qkRQ/edit?usp=sharing  

13/04/23
The bed:
(1) The Z-axis is controlled by three lead screws driven by a single motor, and connected with a GT2 belt. The bed consists of three arms, joined at the centre.  The reason for this is simple:  3-adjustment points are far superior to using four adjustment points which place considerable stress on the bed, and which are also much more difficult to get level.

Here's how I built mine:
(1) Buy a Borosilcate glass bed (the one from Creality is perfect)
(2) Get a silicone heater mat (freely available on the web) - but get one with 3 holes (here's the one I'm using): https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/products/24v-200w-silicone-heater-for-235x235mm-heated-bed-upgrade-creality-ender-3-ender-5-3d-printers
(3) Bond the heater mat directly to the glass (smooth side down)
(4) Bond three M3 screws to the glass (Superglue bonds to glass extremely well)
(5) Either print directly onto the glass, or stick a magnetic sheet onto to the glass and use a flexible PEI sheet (preferred)
 

14/04/23
Supports:
Many of the printed parts require supports.  The best guide to trouble-free supports can be found in the video below:

A superb hole calibration video can also be found below:

I have dispensed with heated inserts almost entirely in favour of M3 through-bolts.

Printhead:
I have completely re-designed the print-head, which does away with fans and blower ducts.  I can do this because the 3-Way 235 uses a Remote Cooling System (RCS) specifically designed to fit the 235-Mod printer. It blows cooling air directly onto the filament which is being deposited.  This is many times more efficient than the usual part cooling system, and removes considerable weight from the print head.

This is the best tutorial on supports I have found.

Many changes to almost every part - too many to list.