TF2 Sentry Raspberry Pi 0 Case

This is a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero I designed based on the Level 1 Sentry from Team Fortress 2. The original…
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updated April 9, 2023

Description

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This is a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero I designed based on the Level 1 Sentry from Team Fortress 2. The original design files are in OnShape if you want to make your own version. In addition to these printed parts and a Raspberry Pi Zero, you'll also need:

2 3

  • Female to Female USB-A coupler
  • 5mm LED and resisitor as appropriate
  • 5 x M2 x 4mm screws
  • 2 x M2 x 8mm screws
  • 7 x M2 x 4mm threaded inserts
  • 4 x M2 x 16mm screws
  • 2 x M2 washers
  • 4 x M2 nuts
  • 2 x M3 x 6mm threaded inserts
  • 2 x M3 x 16mm screws

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

TEVO

Printer:

Tornado

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.1 mm

Infill:

25%

Notes:

When you're slicing, make sure to orient any tabs so that they run along the layer (ie, don't print a tab pointing straight up and down). Most of them are thick enough, but because they need to flex if you print them in that orientation, they may break when you assemble everything.

Post-Printing

Sanding and Painting

You don't have to paint the parts if you don't want to, but I'd highly recommend at least giving the parts a light sanding. They're all designed with a 0.2mm tolerance, so depending on your printer you might have a hard time fitting them together without some finishing.

Insert Threaded Inserts

There are 8 required Threaded Inserts and one optional Threaded Insert. Make sure not to set your heat too high when inserting these and go slowly: they need to be pretty precise and it's not fun to try and re-position one if it gets off-axis.

There are 4 M2 inserts in the tray of the faceplate to hold the Raspberry Pi Zero in place. I used M2x4mm, but you could probably use M2x6mm also.

There are 2 M3 inserts in the column to hold the legs on either side. I used M3x6mm, but there's a good deal of wiggle room here.

There are 2 M2 inserts, one in each front leg, to hold the angle of the front legs. I used M2x4mm and I don't think you could really fit a larger one.

There's an optional M2 insert in the Body_Fore piece, to hold the Faceplate/Tray in place when inserted. It's not strictly necessary, but helps hold the screw in place a little tighter (not that it's even needed).

Raspberry Pi Connections

Attach the Raspberry Pi to the Faceplate with 4 M2 screws.

Assemble the Barrel pieces around the USB coupler, insert the barrel through the faceplate, and connect that to the USB port on the Pi.

Connect the HDMI ribbon cable at this time as well, but don't hook up the other end to the lid just yet.

If you want a power status indicator, hook that up now and glue it into place on the faceplate.

Assemble the Body

You should assemble the rest of the body in this order:

Insert the Body_Fore piece into the Body_Aft (you should hear a distinct click when it's completely inserted).

Attach the assembled body to the Arm and secure with the two nuts (smaller nut attaches at the rear).

Attach the Arm to the Column.

Connect the Upper Struts, Legs, and Brace to the Column using 2 M3 screws, which should connect to the threaded inserts in the column. (I used M3 x 16mm)

Use 2 M2 screws with washers to set the angle of the front legs. These will go on the inside of the front struts.

Connect the Lower Strut to the Upper Struts using to the Upper Struts using 2 M2 screws and nuts (I used M2 x 8mm).

Connect the Rear feet to the Lower Strut using 2 M2 screws and nuts (I used M2 x 16mm)

Snap the Front feet onto the front legs. They should pop right on.

Final Assembly

Slide the faceplate into the body and secure it with a small M2 screw. Make sure to feed both ribbon cables through. (The tolerances for the USB ribbon cable are pretty tight, so you might need to bend or squeeze it slightly to fit it in, but it should go without breaking either the USB plug or the body.)

Connect the HDMI header through the lid, being sure to secure it in place with the HDMI catch.

Insert the lid into the body and rotate it to lock it into place.

Category: Video Games

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The author marked this model as their own original creation. Imported from Thingiverse.

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