Beretta 92A1

Updated (07-27-23) :  

With a comment from “Shaki” about some lateral tolerances for the “Slide”, I added a folder with his 4 new files (details down below).

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Updated (05-17-23) :  

Added a link if anybody wants to print bullets in 2 pieces/2 colors. Details below.

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Updated (05-05-23) : 

-Following a comment, I added instructions about the “Spring Guide”  and “Barrel”.

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Updated (04-27-23) :

-Added schematic of all parts at the end of description.

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Updated (04-18-23) :

-New options for a vertical Logo and also to transform the V1. (Files in the “Display rack” Folder). See details below.

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Updated (04-16-23) :

-New enlarged base for the Stand "92A1_STAND_Large_V2_New", and also a spacer for the “92A1_STAND_Large_V1” if alrady printed.

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Updated (04-15-23) :

-Following a suggestion for making it as a display unit without moving parts, added extra different parts for that purpose (see end of description #35,#36,#38).  

-Added a Magazine a bit wider that as a more snug fit (#37)

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Updated (04-13-23) :

-New screws; modified from originals that were not flat and too thin. The new ones are perfectly round and just a bit thicker. Should be easier to print. 

-New Grips; also modified from original ones. The recessed location for the screws was not flat. Now it is.

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Updated (04-12-23) : 

-The 2 “Triggers” were missing in the files ! Now they are 

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DISCLAIMER:

This is stricly "Home Display Model".

In any case, DO NOT SHOW in public. Please refer to your local legislation related to weapon identifcation, as an example: with "Bright tip colors" if required. You could be arrested, injured or even killed relatively to the possession of this "fake fire arm", and misinterpretations of the realism of it. 

Please, use common sense. I do not have fire arms and have no intention of using any. This model was built as a project only intended as display unit. I share it only in the spirit of a "Work of Art".  

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About the model: 

Be aware that there is some work that goes with it. Depending on your printer, you may have to do some tries on what's the best orientation to print some parts. I printed all parts on a “Bambu Lab P1P”, so make your own experiences because, as you know, sometimes small adjustments makes a lot at the end !

So after a lot of researches for free printable models, I stopped with the Avik Sinha's one on grabcad, who made a good job to provide printable parts, but there are few mistakes; The scale of the whole unit is too big, the name of "Beretta", was misspelled on the slide and grips, the Barrel is not the right size (too big in bore size), the magazine was build with the top part opening in the wrong direction. 

Also the name of the model was not the good one. With the observation of “Ari'sArtCorner” (07-15-23), I changed the name of the model "92FS" for “92A1” which, now, is the good one .

So, I did some work trying to correct these imperfections. It is not perfect, but overall, was a fun project, and I made it to my goal. 

It was not supposed to have moving parts, but in the process, I made some components that made it possible.

I also want to give credits to : "mike402" for the magazine, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3596589). He did a great job with the right orientations of it, and provided an internal printable spring to push the bullets. He made it to fit the original design of "Avik Sinha", and as he mentioned, so out of scale of the real thing.  

For the bullets, "RudyJ" made nice ones; (https://www.printables.com/fr/model/378071-9mm-x-19mm-bullet).

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Update for bullet printing (05-17-23)

I found on thingivers  “9mm Luger dummy round replica and snap cap” from  spearmountain , that could permit you to print the bullets in 2 pieces/2 colors. If you would like to try, you can find the link HERE.  

I haven't tried it, and I would suggest you to read the “Thing Details” before doing it.  

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Printing Tips 

I provide different options with different files to choose from. I'll do my best to make it as clear as possible, so there'll be less time wasted.

Main body: 

You have 3 choices for printing the main body (I tried the 3). They were all printed at .16 mm layer height, normal speed (100%).

-First one:   Is in one piece and I would suggest  to print it with the handle down so have less support. The “Tree support” works the best (less material and less contact with the part, but with my settings, it left a lot of under cleaning. Maybe 45° with the tip down would work also !?

-Second:  Split in the middle with 2 pieces flat on the bed. This one leaves no marks on the outside, and gives a nice finish, but there is the challenge to glue the 2 parts perfectly and there is a lot of surface to deal with when it's time…

-Third :  Split with a front and back part (the one I chose). It was almost as clean as the split in the middle one, but left little marks from the vertical tree supports under the trigger guard (really easy to fix). Also, it made the challenge of gluing the 2 parts less stressful ! Only the 2 zones where the tree supports had to be sanded to leave a smooth surface for the magazine to slide on. Also, the gluing seam disappear under the Grips. It's the main reason I took this one.  

I would suggest you do one at the time (what I did). If something go wrong, you do not lose both parts in the process, and you only add a couple minutes to prepare the next part.

The pictures show the settings I used for both parts to have less surface to clean, and It worked pretty good. Just a couple degrees on the “Threshold angle” setting, and some supports aren't needed anymore. 

Slide, spring Guide and Barrel  :

Slide

There is the original file in the “Barrel” folder, and: 

Following a comment of “Shaki” about some lateral tolerances for the “Slide”, I added a folder [Shaki "Slide" tolerance files (only if needed)] 

It contains his 4 new files, and each file is identify with the added tolerance in width (addition of +.2mm in width for each file).

It's gonna depend of your printer's tolerances (for my P1P, it was good). If you are not sure, I suggest that you print just a slice of the “Slide” to test before doing the final one.

Original:

Shaki's:

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For the Spring Guide;

 I made a support block place between the barrel and the inside of the main body to keep the barrel at the good angle for the motion of the slide. You will have to provide a metal spring if you want it to be mooving like the real one. The spring guide is 10 mm in diameter, so a 12 mm Ø would be ideal (I had one…) The size of the wire of the spring should not be bigger than about 1 mm. (mine is .8 mm)  

When compressed, mine is 20 mm long, this measure refers to the travel (possibility for the "Slide" to move back), if your spring has too many coils, the travel of the "Slide" will be shortened. 

The uncompressed length is not important. In fact, mime had to be stretched to have a bit more kick back and is now about 83 mm.  

There are 2 different choices for the Spring_Guide. One has a block of 15 mm long, and the other one is 20 mm long. Depending of the spring you have, you will have a 5 mm of adjustment iin lenght to chose from. 

To keep the Slider and spring mechanism in place, you have a Cap at the tip of the Spring Guide, and you'll need a 3 mm screw to keep it in place. I would suggest a 10 mm long one for the beginning since you will undo it few time while adjusting your spring and slider. For the final assemble, you could put a 15 mm. as the hole in the spring guide was made for that.

There is spring bushing to put at the front end of the spring to help this one to move freely on the spring guide. It wad made after having too much friction between the spring and the Spring guide. Depending of the spring you use, I put an extra washer (I used it before the busing) It's there in case you need a spacer. 

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I had to make a new Barrel since the original one, even scaled down, had a bore was way too big. Now it's at 9.196 mm which is close to the real one. Also made grooves inside. 

So the first thing to glue is the “Spring Guide” to the “Main body”, then the “Barrel” to the “Spring Guide”, and when gluing the Barrel to the Spring Guide/retaining block, take measurements to leave between 8 to 10 mm coming out of the “Slide” when this one is at it's forward position (stopped by the cap of the Spring Guide). There is a picture below that showing all these parts.

I redesigned and printed 4 Sliders before the final one. So now it moves freely with good rails, while being able to be disassemble without interfering with the Barrel which was in the way ! Also the Beretta name on it was also misspelled, and while scaling it down to the real dimensions, the sizing of the letters had to be done again. 

For the Hammer, you have the original one that could be mounted on an axis with a spring, but for me, it was a lot of work for not much, so I made one with a square seat that goes to the good angle  with few drops of glue. Again, your choice. 

There are 3 Triggers. One without a hole, one with ( this one a bit wider for a pen spring to fit in). The spring give some tension for  a nice trigger feel. The pivot axel could be a nail or something cut to length would do the job. 

The third one is for the option with no moving parts.

The Magazine:

It took me a long time to find a simple solution to keep the Magazine in place, as I was looking for a spring mechanism. The light went on while closing my sunglasses case. It was held by a little magnet !! 

So you have 2 different Magazines. one with a hole for a magnet (space is 10X6X3), and one without. So for the main Body, you also have one with the space for a magnet, and one without.  If you want a magnet hole for the split parts, or you make one after the print, or with your slicer, you could incorporate a negative part on that part (Bambu Studio does it), Or I could modifie the file to have one on the split part !

Since mine did not have those spaces, I made holes after the prints and put some epoxy to hold the magnets flush to the edge using the blade of a cutting knife covered with plastic tape. The magnet was stuck to the metal who was flush to the bottom of the part. Few minutes later, the blade covered with tape was easily removed with the magnet flush to the part.

There is a Printed Spring that goes inside the Magazine to push the bullets up. Like the author wrote: 

“ It's a real pain to put it in place but once you do, it works pretty well. (Notice that you will probably be unable to take the spring out without destroying the whole thing)”. 

So after reading this, I made it a bit narrower, but also longer, since when inside the magazine, the spring was barely at the top of the inside space.  Take your time and use something like a chopstick or a flat screwdriver to be able to move it down slowly piece by piece inside the magazine. Do not forget that there is only one way that the spring goes inside. If you put it the wrong way, you might destroy the spring, and also the magazine. I moved mine in and out few times for testing and now I have the twist. 

Keep in mind that a plastic spring will not retain its elasticity for long, so I plan to make something more durable in a near future, maybe metal if it's easy to do. For the moment, I would suggest about 4 bullets in it, like I did. This way you do not stress it too much, and when you look in it, you only see bullets…

On the 04-15-23, I added a new Magazine (#37-Wider Magazine_Magnet_Hole), that is almost 2 mm wider, to fit without lose inside it's space. If the #37 is too tight, it's because your supports left marks. Either you sand the inside space, or you take  the other Magazine in the list (24a or 24b).

An other tip about the Magazine is that if you stress too much the inlet trying to push the Mag-Spring inside, you might deform a bit the opening (because the walls are so thin), leaving it just a bit too wide to have a nice look (It happened to me). If so, just take a heat gun or hair dryer to max temp. (but be gentle with this), and apply that heat only at the top and while feeling the flex of the plastic , give it back it's original width. Leaving your fingers close to the area, this way, you'll feel if there is too much heat. It's better to give it many trys than only one with too much heat and make a permanent deformation. You could leave a bullet inside to reform it to the perfect curvature.

If you want the Magazine with bullets, but not the assle of the spring inside, maybe you could put it upside down and by adding about 3 to 4 bullets, one at the time you put a drop of glue at the right place while keeping it upside down and this way they would have the real place, but not moving ! It's gonna be as nice.

The Grips:

I would suggest glueing them almost at the end to make sure the slide and the Mag Release buttons do not interfere. Also, check the fit with both parts ; Side_Lock_trigger_bar_Left and right), since they pass under the grips, so you do not want any glue where your gonna place those parts. 

The update for the New Screws and Grips in detail:

The controls: 

All the controls were printed in high resolution (some to .12 mm layer height), and some of them vertically with according supports to make the best finish. I did few tests before choosing the nicest ones…

The Stand:

Since it's a display model, I made a display rack with the Beretta Logo, that hold the Beretta, the magazine and 6 inclined bullets. I printed 4 more  bullets to leave them in the Magazine.

There are 2 models of rack: a long and a short. Now there is a new stand “92A1_STAND_Large_V2_New” with a larger base for the handle. If you already printed the first version, just print and add the “Spacer_for_ STAND_Large_V1”, like I did, so there is no need to reprint the Stand and also no need to glue it, just put it at it's place, you won't see the difference…

Also. 2 thickness of logo that is meant to be glued. The logo is aligned by 2 little pins to be printed. Since they are really small, you could use anything that could fit in those holes (2 mm Ø) . Maybe a wood match (it's about 2.5 mm square), or a piece of nail could do the job !? The size of the sign could not permit me to do bigger holes. 

Logo update (04-18-23) :

First: 

If like me, you already printed the "92A1_STAND_Large" (this V1 is not listed anymore), and the "Flat Logo" is already glued, and you would like to have the Logo vertically, in the Folder “Display Rack”, you take the 2 files "Base_Cover_for_Vertical_Logo_V1" and "Logo_Vertical_for_Cover_the_V1", and you can entirely cover the flat version.

 
Here is the before and after.

I would not glue it, since you can change the view anytime (even the angle).

Second:

You can use the New “92A1_STAND_Large_V2_No_Holes” and put the new “Logo_Vertical_New” and "Base_Vertical_Logo_New", and put it anywhere (glued or not).

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FOR NON MOVING PARTS

Updated (04-15-23); As a suggestion, added different parts for a rigid display unit.

-#35-Trigger_Rigid ; Should fit in the space and could be glued

-#36-Guide_NO_SPRING: So no spring, no spring bushing, no CAP and screw needed, just glue the #36 Guide to the main frame and the "Slide" to it's normal place, then glue the “Barrel” with desire protruding tip as explained (8 to 10 mm out). 

-#38-Magazine_CAP; Will plug the bottom of the handle, so no "Magazine, magazine spring and bullets needed there.

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Schematic of all parts.

Happy printing.