Creality Sermoon D1 top cover

With some additional soundproofing applied on the side panel / door gaps this cover resulted in a 20% (9 dB) overall noise reduction in addition to the improved ABS print quality.
It also improves air purification efficiency if you use a HEPA air filter for the printing chamber.

====PRINT OBJECTS====

1 set of lower frame elements
1 set of upper frame elements
1 pc lower frame lever with a cutout for cables 
1 bolt mounted cable holder
1 top handle
1 set of lower + upper corner elements
1 pc middle corner element (not entirely symmetrical so flip them during assembly where required)

The square spherical bearing filament guide cover on the photo is just for aesthetics and isn't included (bearing is glued directly into the acrylic sheet)

Soundproofing gap fillers for the doors and side panels are not included.

====TOOLS REQUIRED====

Whatever your preferred method is for cutting acrylic (oscillating or rotary tool, a *sturdy* electric hot knife or scoring & breaking it with a hook cutter blade (probably the easiest)

Electric drill, various drill bits
** make slightly bigger holes for the bolts so the whole frame can be fine adjusted before tightening everything.
Assemble the corner elements and side panels first, mark the holes and take panel out for drilling. If necessary predrill with a smaller drill bit to make sure it's centered. Repeat the same with the frame levers, fold them out of the way.

Allen / Hex keys 
**electric screwdriver (unless it has speed control) is not recommended, the flat bolt heads are thin and strip easily

Pliers or M4, M5 spanners

Fine point Sharpie permanent marker

Optional: protective goggles, gloves, FFP3 mask for cutting & drilling (don't inhale microplastics lol)

====MATERIALS REQUIRED====

Top panel: 400 x 400 x 3mm (or 5-6mm) acrylic / plexiglass sheet
Side panels: 400 x 100 x 3mm acrylic / plexiglass sheet (depending on cutting method there will be material loss, doesn't have to be exact 100mm)

**At 100C bed and 240C nozzle temp I noticed a few mm temporary warping at the back corners of the top sheet, therefore noise/heat isolation was somewhat compromised.
If you regularly print above 240C you might want to use 5-6 mm sheet instead.

Bolts: 
16 pcs M4 x 20mm flat head Allen / Hex bolts for the frame parts
16 pcs M5 x 30mm flat head Allen / Hex bolts for the corners 
4 pcs M4 x 16mm for the handle and cable holder

Nuts: 
16 pcs M5 and 20 pcs M4
Nylon self locking nuts are recommended so they don't loosen over time.

Spherical Bearing: 
GE4C (4mmx12mmx5mm)
This can be glued directly into a hole on the side panel (I'd recommend somewhere on the lower half), it will fit a short PTFE tube as well if required. Applying oil or PTFE spray (GT85) is recommended before first use.

Magnets: 
4mm x ~12.5mm, preferably Neodymium, around 0.7kg pull each
They are press fit and not essential. Pull force can be adjusted if you position them higher, a touch of superglue might be required.

Washers are not necessary.

====PRINT SETTINGS====

Whatever settings and material you prefer, PLA is fine. 
I printed it with a 0.6mm nozzle which I recommend if you want to save on print time and increase strength.  For the middle corner element a brim could be useful.
Part orientation is obviously key, you might have to flip some parts in the slicer and also keep it consistent throughout for better aesthetics.
Top surface ironing on the corner elements is recommended.

IMPORTANT: this has been designed for a full stock hotend, part cooling fans etc. 
If you use a 5015 parts fan or anything that makes the printhead carriage wider, depending on the design you might have adjust the bolts in the middle of the lower left frame element because they will be in the way. You can still use the same bolts, just
place the nut on the other side (right under the bolt head), use superglue to fully secure the printed parts then apply plenty of silicone glue around the bolt and put it back. 

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Have fun, if I missed something leave a comment.