Print in place tiny whoop drone frame

A support-less one piece tiny whoop drone frame, 75mm diagonal between motors, made for 40mm props.
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updated August 10, 2024

Description

Note: I made this frame as a prove of concept and to see if it was possible, not because it will work well. You can build a flying drone with it but if you want to build and actual fly a tiny whoop, joust get a real, injection molded frame. On the other hand it demonstrates very well what carefully using bridging to your advantage can do.

 

 

After looking at a normal injection molded tiny whoop frame I got an idea for how I could model one that can be 3d printed in one piece and without supports by carefully using bridging and pushing overhangs to there limits. 

This frame is not designed to compete with injection molded frames. I made it because I wanted to know if it was possible to make a 3d printed tiny whoop that flies somewhat well and was capable of taking some light crashes without instantly disintegrating. I somewhat succeeded with this, its still very fragile since printing everything in one peace results in important parts of the frame being printed in sub optimal directions.

I made a different tiny whoop frame that deviates more from the injection molded design and requires assembly but is a LOT stronger than this, once I decide to upload it, a link to that frame will appear here:

Print settings: 

  • Filament: Pla
  • slow speeds ~50 mm/s
  • High temps relative to what is recommended for your filament (this improves layer adhesion).
  • No supports.
  • No brim, model has integrated bed adhesion helpers.

Specs of the frame:

  • Weight: around 8g (in Pla), other less dense filaments should result in a lighter frame.
  • Size: 75mm motor post to motor post.
  • Props: designed for 40mm props.
  • Battery holder:  fits 270mah or 450mah batteries depending on the version. 
  • Durability: should take some very light crashes, will break in a hard crash.

Known flaws of the frame:

  • The standoffs for the flight controller are very fragile and break quickly while screwing the fc down.
  • You need very well tuned bridging settings.

Cleanup of the frame after printing:

  • Remove the bed adhesion helpers: all the 1 layer thick parts that were printed directly on the bed.

 

 

  • Clean up the holes on the motor mounting plates, don't forget the large center hole, the motors won't spin up it the holes aren't cleaned up.

 

 

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