X axis linear slider / hotend plate - Ender 3 pro/V2/CR/10

DIY linear slider for X axis on Ender 3 pro, v2, CR-10

(Replaces whole mounting plate)

Y axis here

This fits precisely in the V grooves of the 20x20 extrusion that is on Ender 3 Pro - it may work on other printers as well but I can't guarantee. Holes on the plate are placed according to squirrelf3d's so it should fit Ender 3, 3 pro, V2 and CR-10.

EXPERIMENTAL - This piece is currently working very well, I use it on my printer and it has actually exceeded my expectations. I have already used it for many many hours of printing and didn't notice any problem but there is one big potential issue and that is the steel ball bearings runing on the aluminium extrusion - I actually didn't notice any marks on my printer yet but even Exoslide states that the steel bearings on aluminium are rated to around 10 000 cycles until the aluminium will start to wear which is very low for X or Y axis and thus if you want to test it, do at your own risk.

Edit: There are actually MR105 bearings made of nylon and glass balls on the market but currently they are pretty unaccesible at least for me - if you can get hand on these you could be just fine as the nylon will definitely not wear the aluminium extrusion.

If there is anyone going to test the model I really appreciate any feedback.

FEATURES

• Easy fit - just change it for the stock mount plate with rollers.
• Adds rigidity to the tool head - less flex and wobble.
• MR105 Ball bearings running on the 20x20 extrusion - no maintenance/adjustment needed (just keep the extrusion clean).
• Designed with little pretension so it should fit snugly out of the box.
• More precise movement thanks to the ball bearings and overall rigidity.
• Longer lifetime expected if used Nylon/POM bearings.
• Added mount for KlackEnder with the same position to the nozzle as the original mount.

BAD FEATURES?

• More noise theoretically - I didn't actually notice significant increase in noise but ball bearings on the aluminium extrusions should be transfering more noise.
• No adjustment - shouldn't be needed as it is designed to be printed already with little pretension but maybe for someone some day little pretension possibility would be nice.
• Screws for the ball bearings are screwed directly into plastic - this is strong and usable joint but you have to tighten accordingly.

PRINT RECOMMENDATIONS 

• ASA/ABS/HIPS/PETG etc. recommended.
• 8 perimeters, 10 top and bottom layers, 60% infill

BUILD INFO/TIPS/NEEDED HARDWARE 

• MR105 ball bearing 8pcs - use Nylon/POM bearings if you can. Steel ones only for testing.
• M5x12 screw 8pcs - use low profile head as on the pictures.
• M3x5 heat insert 4pcs
• M3x10 screw 2pcs

First clean the print - there are some bridges that don't print perfectly. When installing bearings, screw the screws slowly and carefully so you don't split the piece but as the screw holes are under 45° to the layer lines it shouldn't split. Install heat inserts in the 4mm holes.

Depending on your hotend cover/shroud choose the hotend spacer - either the one piece spacer with two holes (better option if it fits) or the two separate spacers that mimic the original plate.

After inserting the belt ends in belt fasteners you need to cut off the crimped ends, but then you can't use it with the stock plate if you want to go back - I prefer using new belt.

Clean the aluminium extrusion before using/installing the slider!

After installing check your belt tension, align your bed/nozzle height and that's it. Happy printing.

If you really like the design and/or just want to appreciate my work and time spend, you can buy me a coffee.

But I'm just happy if this makes someone else happy.