These struts will give you the most rigid and vibration-resistant build plate you can get without a second z-axis.
They are not without compromise, however:
The manual bed leveling system is removed.
If you don't have an ABL and/or a VERY flat build plate, this will not work for you.
Permanent alterations must be made to your frame.
The threads must be drilled out of the holes for the linear bearing screws to allow the strut to act as a nut, sandwiching the frame in place.
Hardware required:
8x 16-20mm M4 socket head cap screws - for the linear bearings
4-8x M4 lock nuts for the bed assembly
4x M4 washers with a 9mm outside diameter
4x solid bed spacers - size and material depends on your installation
Kapton tape
Tips:
If you're having to use a lot of force to seat the struts around the bearings, STOP. Take the strut off and remove some material with a round file, checking the fit frequently to avoid it becoming too loose.
To prevent shorting out the heated bed, place some Kapton tape around the threaded studs before installing any hardware.
The studs on the heated bed are not fixed in place; they spin. The easiest way to deal with this is to install lock nuts at the base of each stud. This will require you to get bed spacers with an inside diameter of at least 8mm to fit over the nuts.
Before printing the struts, print a test piece with a 19.2mm circle to make sure it will fit over the bearings. If the fit isn't snug (without being too tight) download the .step files and alter them as necessary.
The author marked this model as their own original creation.