When you print on the X1 (or P1P) at very high temperatures, the magnets in the build plate lose strength. This can cause the bed to shift. Or in some cases the corners of the build plate will lift off of the magnetic surface entirely, causing the print to warp even if it is fully stuck to the build plate.
These clips, like the two originals I derived this from, aim to solve this problem.
Honestly, I just took the best parts of the two inspiration models and put them together. I wanted a minimum amount of lost bed X/Y/Z, which @Coat's model offered. And I wanted the flexibility to adjust the thickness which @ktothestank's model provided.
These should be able to be printed in the provided orientations without any supports. You'll want 3 “short” bottoms, 1 or 2 “tall” bottoms and 4 or 5 tops. Print using something that tolerates high temperatures for obvious reasons. I'd suggest the 20mm “strength” profile. FWIW, I printed them in Polymaker's clear PC, which is pretty reasonable for an engineering-grade filament.
See the attached diagram for suggestions as to where to place these. Obviously don't put two in one corner…I'm just giving you the options.
These will require 4-5 M3 screws (18mm+ & 28mm+) and 4-5 M3 nuts. That's it. The nuts snap into the knobs. The screws will screw into the tops (through the “false floor”) until they bottom out. Then put top + bottom + knob. Bob's your uncle.
Haven't had any need to modify the start G-code or anything else. So far so good.
Enjoy!
The author remixed this model.