Charging Station Holder

Charging Station Holder

This is NOT meant to be a buyer suggestion, I bought two of these multiple USB chargers some years ago and I needed some way to bolt it to a surface instead of having it random on my desk.

If you have a similar kind of charging dock, you now also have a way to fix it to a surface!

IN USE TIP: Since some of the USB ports will be empty at times, but probably the brick will be always powered on through its cord, I suggest you bolt it with the USB ports facing down in order to protect them from dust, debris or any kind of spillage. The power port is also much easier to clean if something happens.

There are stls of 3 main objects: 

• The upper part (the thicker one, that will be the exposed part)
• The lower part (The thinner one, that will be in contact with the wall)
• The hole positioner, a fast to print part meant to help you to make the holes without damaging the actual print.

The hole positioner has a double function: 

• it can be initially used to drill the holes into the surface you are going to fix it to
• after that, if for example you are fixing it to a drawer or something accessible from the inside, you can use it to tighten some hex nuts against it and keep the holder in position during its use. 

For this reason, I also put a parametric Fusion 360 file (Only of the HolePositioner) so that you can customize it as much as you want.

Drilling strategy: 

• drill the first hole in the desired position.
• put a bolt or something trough the HolePositioner and the first drilled hole to keep them aligned.
• get the HolePositioner straight and sign the center of the second hole or directly drill trough the HolePositioner.
• put a second bolt to align it straight.
• now you can directly drill trough the HolePositioner to get the last 2 holes.

Printing tips: (WATCH THE PICTURE OF THE SLICED FILE)

The only important tip is for the LowerPart: if you limit the “Minimum Layer Time” in Cura (or equivalent in PrusaSlicer) to 20 seconds, you will get a safer speed on the upper part.

Apart from that, if you have good bridging settings, you should be able to print it without supports for the very small overhangs.  

If this has been helpful to you, saved you some time or some money, please consider supporting me with a tip trough Ko-fi.

https://ko-fi.com/addictivemanufacturing