2020 V-Roller StealthBurner Carriage

WIP

This is a complete X-Carriage replacement for mounting a Voron StealthBurner and ClockWork2 Direct Drive on a V-Roller setup on a 2020 extrusion using and Ender 3 style belt system.

I currently have 3 versions available: 

• BLTouch / 3D Touch / CR Touch (you will need a spacer since it's shorter than the others) or other probes in this family.
• BTT / BIQU MicroProbe
• No Probe mount.
• KlackEnder. (depending on your printer you may lose some printable area in the X direction. You will also need to grab the rest of the parts from the KlackEnder repo or https://kevinakasam.com/)

This carriage was designed from scratch but I took inspiration from the adapter that I remixed from the Ender 3 V2 conversion by WouterE_ which was only compatible with the bowden setup for StealthBurner and didn't support CW2 direct drive. I designed and tested this on an Elegoo Neptune 2D but it should work on most Ender 3 style printers as far as I know.

In addition to the SB / CW2 parts you will need to print the carriage for your probe type and both belt loop files and the modified motor plate if desired (see below). I recommend printing files following the Voron specifications and everything will print without supports.

All of the SB / CW2 files and manual can be found here: https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner . There are tool heads for other hotends available on here or thingiverse so if you don't see official support for the hotend you have / want on the github try searching on here.

StealthBurner / CW2 kits can be found various places online, this is the kit I got: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804461283749.html

In addition to the normal BOM for SB + CW2, for the carriage you will need an additional 8 M3x4mmx5mm inserts, some bulk GT2 6mm belt, 3 M5x35mm BHCS, 2 M3x20mm BHCS, 2 small zipties and 2 M3 screws of appropriate length for mounting your probe (for the MicroProbe I actually tapped the housing for M3 screws and used M3x8mm, with some gentle persuasion you can thread the screws straight into the probe housing or you can use an M3x0.5 tap). You can reuse the rollers and spacers and eccentric nut from your existing carriage and the M5x30mm bolts will work but I recommend the 35mm as the 30mm don't fully engage the nylock so they may vibrate loose over time, the 35mm also let you run a washer under the head if desired. 

There are 6 inserts that go on the front and 2 on the rear of the carriage. (Ignore the dirty inserts I've been reusing the same inserts for multiple revisions during testing.)

The Belt Loops will attach to the back 2 inserts with M3x20mm BHCS. To install the belt you will fold over the end to form a loop and slip it into the slot so that the teeth mesh with each other and the loop at the end of the belt slips over the teardrop. Not all belts are created equal and some are thinner and may slip when tensioned so I recommend adding a ziptie just outside the Belt Loop to lock it in place. When you install the carriage on the printer I would attach one side of the belt and then route the other end with the tensioner all the way loose and then trim the end of the belt with it in place and somewhat snug and then re-tension the belt with the idler / tensioner. 

Depending on your printer tolerances you may need to ream out the holes for the rollers, you can use an 5mm reamer or drill on the top 2 holes and a 7mm on the eccentric hole at the bottom and then you can use the M5 BHCS to draw the eccentric into the carriage once it's lined up, it should still rotate and adjust fine since it's just in plastic.

The stock CW2 motor plate will mostly fit on my carriage but there are some minor clearance issues so I modified it slightly and included the CAD and stl file, I just removed some extra material at the bottom of the plate that didn't seem to have any actual function. Blue below is the stock and Black is the modified, I didn't want to remove any more of the material around the inserts. I was able to clean off the elephants foot and do some slight trimming with a hobby knife on the stock part to make it fit though so you don't necessarily need to use the modified file.

I'm not familiar enough with how the Sherpa, LGX, Orbiter or other extruder options mount with SB but if they fit on the default gantry frame then they should also work with my carriage in theory.

For the probes you will want to place the cable through the pass-thru and connect it to the probe and then mount the probe to the carriage as you will probably have difficulty plugging it in after the probe is mounted.

The BLTouch offset (at least with Revo Voron hotend) is X=40, Y=16, I think the MicroProbe offset is the same, I would recommend verifying the offset with your specific hotend and probe though.

Adding SB will move the nozzle about 20mm forward from the stock hotend configuration. You can either leave it and adjust your minimum positions and endstop offsets to match or you can move your Y extrusion to compensate as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PV_FJh0c8aY&t=4530s (It should take you to the correct timestamp but it's 1:15:30 if it doesn't work) You may still need to adjust your firmware slightly to make sure X0, Y0 is on the front left corner of the build plate. Teaching Tech has a good video on the process for changing the offset in Marlin here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpciFs30xCA, Klipper is easier to configure but the process for finding your offsets will be pretty much the same. (In my case since I haven't moved the Y extrusion yet my X endstop is at -3 and my Y endstop is at -25. If I move the Y extrusion theoretically my Y endstop will then be at -5.)

If you have any questions feel free to leave a comment or send me a message and I will try to help.