Bambu Lab X1-C P1P Vented Lid Riser (with room for LED strip)

All credit goes to RockChewer - hopefully this is a worthy successor. I extended the bottom to allow the mounting of an LED strip up to 10mm wide below the vents with an angle that should (hopefully) provide illumination throughout the chamber, a hole at the rear to allow for wiring, slightly scaled down connectors (0.99 and 0.98 - I recommend printing 1 of each to test fit), adjusted the gasket to fit the 17mm wide top surface, and rotated everything to be optimal for printing. I printed this on the X1C using black Bambu ABS at stock settings and the 0.20 Standard profile at stock settings (except 20% cubic infill) and the only quality issue is a slightly less than perfect overhang - which will just be covered by the LED strip anyway.

While I've seen a couple of other designs with vents that allow for an LED strip, those designs have the LED strip above the vents where the hottest air will collect. This remix should keep the build-up of hot air around the LED strip to a minimum and allow the hottest air to escape (when the vents are open, of course).

The .step files can be imported directly into Bambu Studio by either using Ctrl+I or dragging the file onto BStudio. Once imported simply right-click the imported model and go to Split > To Objects - this will split the model into separate pieces you can move and rotate into printing position. I was able to print 2 corners at once on a single plate, along with the connectors. While I haven't printed the plugs yet (I can't decide between NinjaFlex and Cheetah) I don't foresee any issues other than possibly fit…but printing the 2-plug piece for a test fit should be quick and easy.

In the included photos you'll see 2 images of 2 printers sitting next to each other. The photo of 2 brightly lit printers is a previous single LED strip upgrade on the left (you can see the white and yellow wires at the top left next to the door) with this upgrade on the right - the photo doesn't make apparent just how much brighter the printer on the right actually is. The second photo with a very dark printer is this upgrade on the left with a stock X1 on the right.

And, following in RockChewer's steps, you can access the model at OnShape.

USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. RESULTS MAY VARY. NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR USE.

Update (2023-02-24): Here's additional information on my setup with the LEDs and wiring as requested in a comment. I recommend reading this in full to understand my reasoning behind my choices, and the other options I see as possibilities. Also, unfortunately, the level of difficulty is a bit higher for LED strips since soldering will almost certainly be required. Anyway, on to the meaty bits…

While I can't say for other countries, if you live in the US the LED strip I'm using can be ordered from Amazon here. I chose the 24V LED strip for 2 important reasons. First, 24V LED strips tend to run cooler than 5V or 12V LED strips which may allow this to be printed in PLA only if you don't plan to print anything higher temp than probably PETG with the riser installed. Second, and this is the big one - there just so happens to be 1 open positive terminal and 1 open negative terminal on the *24V* power supply of the Bambu printers. Yes, I hear some of you - you do need to be concerned about overall power draw because the power supply is only rated for so much; however, for our purposes the power draw is almost negligible and should be well under any tolerances built in by not only Bambu but also by the manufacturer of the actual power supply. To put the power draw into perspective the 24' LED strip came with a 24V 2A power supply and this design only uses about 4' of LED strip - 4' / 24' = 1/6 * 2A = 1/3A - and that's assuming there isn't any tolerance built in by the LED strip manufacturer (otherwise the actual power draw even is lower than that). As additional information, if you're considering tapping into the printer's built-in LED, or using the USB port on the P1P, you will need to use a 5V LED strip as that's what the Bambu LED runs on and, I believe, what the USB plug provides (up to 0.5A IIRC).

This paragraph is for wiring directly to the printer's power supply. I went this route because I have 3x Bambu X1s and want their lights to turn on/off on a per-printer basis. Skip to the next paragraph if you don't want to open your printer:
So, if you don't mind opening the back of your X1 or P1P, you can wire this LED strip directly into the printer's power supply the the lights come on with the printer - which is what I've done. I put spade connectors on 2x 40cm 22ga wires (although, I recommend increasing the length to 50-60cm) and connected them to the available terminals on the power supply. In order to jailbreak the wires from the printer's interior I only saw 2 good options that didn't involve introducing a new hole to the rear panel - through the poop chute, or through the belt tensioner fitting. I chose the belt tensioner fitting because I believe it likely has the least chance of introducing mechanical issues with the printer. I first twisted the wires together, then ran them almost straight up in the printer's power/controller compartment, along the ribbon cables running to the stepper motor directly above, then carefully wrapped/attached the wires through the tensioner so they won't interfere with the belt, and connected them to one half of this DC power connector (yes, it's only 12V but, again, we're talking about minuscule amounts of power). The alternative to this would be keeping all the wiring inside the enclosure but this will make disconnecting the LEDs more difficult if you need to remove the riser.

Wiring with the LED strip's included power supply:
I suspect this will be much easier since you don't need to take the back off the printer and remove 2 components inside but it will require the same amount of soldering. Note that 1 of the halves of the DC power connector I linked just above also fits into the LED strip's included power supply. Also, you can even use the included remote to control the lighting as long as you install the little dongle with the buttons.

For the LED strips, I soldered some wires between the 4 pieces of LED strip (2x 29cm and 2x 33cm) and 2 more 22ga wires at one end (15-20cm for these wires is probably good) - make absolutely sure during this process that you are consistent with which side the ground is on. My personal recommendation after having gone through this once is this: keep the ground on the bottom, have the leftmost LED strip piece be 1 of the 29cm (shorter) lengths, and attach the wires to the left side of that piece (I'll try to post an image of what I'm talked about a little later). Once all the soldering was done I inserted the wires through the hole at the rear of the riser, stuck the strips to the riser in order starting with the strip connected to the wires exiting the hole, and attached the other half of the DC power connector to the wires. Once this was done I attached the connector to the LED strip's included power supply to test for functionality - success! Then, with my printer's power supply turned off, I attached the LED strips to the DC power connector running from from my printer's power supply and turned on the printer - again, success! Make sure to test in that order - if you messed something up you'd much rather blow the LED strip's power supply than your printer's power supply (or worse). Once testing is successful put your printer back in place and enjoy your new interior lighting!


Update (2023-03-01): Added a version of the riser with the height of the rim around the glass lid increased from 3mm to 4.6mm as requested in the comments. This height is the height of the gasket (1.6mm) plus a compromise between the various glass lid thickness measurements of 3mm (measured heights varied between 2.90mm and 3.34mm). If additional heights are necessary feel free to let me know!