TiltBox

A compact, tilted layout for a DIY B0XX/Frame1 that can be printed on small print beds (largest part is 113.5x102x13mm). Modules are bolted together and lids bolted down using threaded inserts. The buttons are at a 10 degree inward tilt.

This is not a guide on how to make a DIY B0XX. Join Crane's Discord if you want to know more about these controllers and also take a look at HayBox which is what I'm running on my controller.

The Raspberry Pi Pico gets attached with 2 raspberry_pi_pico_stand.stl's and HTangle's Model BirdD (usb-c breakout with Schottky diode included) is attached with threaded inserts. Key  switches are pressed in to the 14x14mm cutouts which may need to be sanded for the switches to go in. Keyswitches are Gateron ks-27 low profile reds and keycaps are G20's from here.

NEW Simple Faceplates

Unlike the swappable faceplates, these are each 1 part and don't require threaded inserts to attach (the bottom lids will still need to be attached with threaded inserts).

There are 4 types of these modules:

• Simple-2mm: No fillet around the edges, and 2mm thick keyswitch plate
• Simple-4mm: No fillet around the edges, and 4mm thick keyswitch plate
• Simple-Fillet-2mm: Fillet around the edges, and 2mm thick keyswitch plate
• Simple-Fillet-4mm: Fillet around the edges, and 4mm thick keyswitch plate

Fillet vs No Fillet

Fillets are rounded edges, and in this case I'm talking about the top most edge of the faceplate.

Fillet:

No Fillet:

Swappable Faceplates

*UPDATE: new stl's have been added that DON'T require these faceplates (see the Simple Faceplates section)

These allow for intricate patterns on the face of the controller. They are secured to the button modules using M2 threaded inserts and screws. Be careful not to pierce through the plate when adding the threaded inserts. 

Included are faceplates with a hex(shine) pattern as well as blank ones. You can add your own pattern to the blank faceplates if you wish. I recommend a 0.25mm cut into the surface. I used a clear 3d epoxy to coat the faceplates and fill in the 0.25mm cut. This is optional.
 

Parts List

2 M3x20mm (usbc cable mount)
5 M3x12mm (backplates)
2 M3x10mm (pico stands)
6 M3x8mm (side walls)
2 M3x6mm (HTangle's Model BirdD)
8 M3 nuts (side wall screws and pico stands)
    - What I used: amazon link

5 Threaded Inserts M3*4.6x5.7mm (for lids, amazon link)

15 M2x4mm (faceplates, amazon link)

15 Threaded Inserts M2*3.2x2mm (faceplates, amazon link)

4 Eyeglass Screws HD2.5 x SD1.4 x L6mm (for Pico + stand)
4 Eyeglass Bolts (for Pico + stand)
    - What I used: amazon link

1 Raspberry Pi Pico

1 HTangle's Model BirdD: https://github.com/HTangl/Model-UD

1 USBC to USBC Mount: amazon link 

• The enclosure is made with this exact cable in mind. It won't work for other cables without modifications.

20 Switches (I'm trying out these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WYJ8HSD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 though I think most will work)

Wire (I used 26awg solidcore)

Possible Future Updates

• More faceplate designs
• DONE --A version without faceplates--
• HTangl button layout