Ender 3 Pro Voron Themed Electronics Enclosure

After trying various electronics enclosures for my Ender 3 Pro, I was not happy with many of them due to various issues with each

• Fit was tight and not very forgiving for running cables
• Airflow/cable management were usually afterthoughts
• PSU was not always a consideration for relocation in some designs

I really liked the style and functionality of the excellent E3 Pro Switchwire mods by walttriano and boubounokefalos. This Voron themed electronics enclosure combines elements from both with my own modifications. I wanted to mainly achieve the following goals

• Completely bottom relocated electronics (PSU, Mainboard and Raspberry Pi) without changing the kinematics (kind of a semi voron conversion :P)
• Ample room for airflow and cable management options built in
• Separate Power for the Pi and Printer (power controlled by a smart plug) for a simpler design
• Remove as much unnecessary mass as possible from the gantry and frame to allow for better resonant frequencies and faster accelerations using Klipper

I am uploading all STL files required for the build for convenience. This involves files from the original sources as well as modifications made for this design specifically. I am also including the Fusion 360 file for any remixes! :)

Parts to print

• 1x cover_4040_extrusion_cut (for covering the extrusion hole in the bottom of the printer when routing cables. It can be a tight fit so might have to sand it if needed)
• 1x each of the 4 deck pieces
• 4x foot_extension (for allowing more room under the printer for airflow/cable management/components)
• 4x foot_tpu (Recommended to print with TPU (15% infill) to reduce vibrations. PLA could also work in a pinch (40% infill or higher) )
• 1x each of the 6 grill pieces for the front and back
• 4x grill_endcap (to snap into the grill once assembled. Might want to print in a different color for contrast)
• 1x each of the psu_clamp and psu_hanger (I had to mix components here from the two original builds to allow not having to extend the base and still mount the PSU underneath)
• 1x rpi mount (if using)
• 1x skr_mini_e3_mount (should work for the stock creality boards as well as the mounting holes are the same)
• Optionally, 1x of the y_frame_cc_connector and z_frame_cc_connector for attaching the cable chains (if using)
• (Optional) 2x 40_mm_fan_mount (one for Raspberry Pi and one for the mainboard)
• (Optional) Buck converter mount
• (Optional) 1x usb_c_adapter_mount for attaching a usb c extension cable to power the PI. It is a tight fit in the rear grill holes so you might need to sand it down a bit. I did not integrate this into the grill itself as you might want to swap the location of the pi to either side based on your preference.

I appreciate any tips to support my work!

Print Settings

Printer Brand:

Creality

Printer:

Ender 3 Pro

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

15%

Filament: Duramic 3D PLA Plus

Black Post-Printing =============

Assembly Instructions

Additional parts needed

(affiliate links below)

• Assorted T nuts
• Assorted M3 bolts
• Assorted M5 bolts
• Panel Mount Plug Adapter (the stock plug and switch may not work depending on your model. Cut off one/both of the fins and super glue it in the rear panel after test fitting)
• 12 AWG cable for extending PSU wire to the rear mounted switch. The stock wire is most likely not long enough
• Spade connectors and crimping tool for the connections between PSU to the panel mount plug and buck converter for fans (if using)
• (Optional) Buck converter for the fans
• (Optional) Usb-c extension cable for powering the pi externally (if using)
• (Optional) Zipties and mounts for tidying up cables

Assembly Guide

The original source repositories have decent guides on how to attach the components to the frame using various sized bolts. In terms of order of putting everything together, the order I would recommend is (see attached pictures for better idea)

• Remove all electronic components off the printer. Remove all cables from the motors and put them aside. Flip the frame to the side to make it easier to work with
• Mount the 4040 extrusion cut cover
• Remove the stock plastic housing from the PSU, relocate PSU to the bottom front and mount using the clamp and holder
• Mount the mainboard and Raspberry Pi (I mounted my mainboard to the back left and Pi to the back right). Run any serial cables between Pi and mainboard/plug in SD card with desired firmware at this point
• Attach the front and back grills. You may want to insert the usb c slot cover into the rear grill prior to attaching them (if using)
• Make any minor adjustments to the location of the Pi and mainboard now as needed
• Attach the panel mount plug and switch to the rear grill and run wires from PSU to switch terminals
• Mount buck converter and run wires from PSU to buck converter (if using cooling fans)
• Run wires from buck converter to Cooling fans. Screw the fans into the mounts and attach over the mainboard and Pi to get good coverage over the driver heatsinks and cpu.
• Attach the foot extension and TPU feet to the frame using T nuts and bolts
• Mount the 4 deck panels using T nuts and bolts
• Make sure to attach the cable chain adapters (if using) to the back left panel
• Perform cable management at the bottom as needed
• Bundle up wires from the mainboard and run through the hole in the back left panel and out via the cable chains (if using)
• There are also smaller holes for running motor wire connectors (Z and Y)
• Perform a sanity test before flipping for basic wiring issues
• Flip and adjust cables if drooping using zip ties as needed
• You might want to re-level your bed at this point before you start printing
• Happy Printing!

Notes

• The SD card slot can be a bit hard to reach depending on how you orient and mount the mainboard. I only had to access it once to flash the firmware using Klipper and then use the sd card flash method for future firmware upgrades. If you tend to use the SD card more often, you might want to consider an extension cable.
• If using an adxl345 sensor for resonance measurements, I would recommend making an extension cable that can stay attached to the Pi's GPIO pins so that you may mount/remove it as needed. I built a small cable like this for mine (you can see it at the back of the printer on the left in the pictures)
• I removed the stock LCD display as I don't use it with Klipper. You could potentially install it instead of one of the front right end caps or move it to an external enclosure.
• The attached pictures might have some older components on the hotend not listed in the printer upgrades section. Print quality is not the best either as there was not much tuning done before the enclosure was built :D

Front

Back

Overview

Grill

Printer Upgrades

List of Printer Upgrades

If anyone is curious about the various upgrades I did to my Ender 3 Pro, here they are (in no particular order)

• SKR Mini E3 V2.0
• Silicone Springs for Bed
• Upgraded lead screw coupler
• Raspberry Pi 4 running Klipper . Connected via serial/GPIO to mainboard
• Bltouch
• Z axis anti wobble nut
• Bed level knobs
• Manta MK2 Duct & Tool Head System with dual 5015 Blowers
• Sherpa Mini Direct Drive Extruder
• Triangle Labs Dragon Hotend
• Rigid Mounting Adapter for dragon hotend
• Bondtech CHT nozzles (0.6mm and 1.0 mm)
• Gates belts for X and Y axes
• 12 AWG shielded wires from PSU to mainboard
• Voron themed electronics enclosure
• Removed the stock LCD screen in favor of Fluidd/Klipperscreen
• KlipperScreen running on a wall mounted Kindle Fire HD via VNC
• Polycarbonate V slot wheels from openbuilds
• Noctua 40x20 fans for cooling the Pi and mainboard
• Noctua 80x20 mm fan and cover for PSU
• Purple Loctite on the Frame joints only for better rigidity (Not recommended for screws you tend to tighten as part of maintenance often)
• Printer is placed on a Concrete paver which is placed on a rubber paver for reducing vibrations and noise
• Wrapped cables inside cable chains. Did not add chains for X axis to reduce moving mass
• Universal Filament Drybox with Tush++
• Removed the spool holder from the printer to reduce vibrations. Built printer and filament shelves instead in the garage

Ask in the comments if you are curious about anything I may have forgotten to mention :)

Category: 3D Printer Accessories