Superglue works well for attaching the Text to the front of the frame. For the button I found that hot glue or a superglue gel were easiest as they fill the gaps in the bridging. D-Pad knob is a press fit on the encoder knob.
Attach the screen with the same mounting hardware used for the stock screen frame. Tolerances and spacing on the 3.2" LCD screens vary, so you may find that you can only easily attach the screen with two or three screws. If your screw-hole spacing is wildly different then please leave a comment with the PCB dimensions and the distances between the edges of the screw holes and edges of the PCB, and I'll try to post a version for those dimensions.
The PoP files are meant to be used with the technique I came across in this youtube video from Make Anything. In short:
It's important that your second print use a lot of z-hop - I recommend 0.8mm - and that your printer does not do any preparation steps that could cause a collision with the text, such as generating a bed mesh.
The PoP versions of the .3mf files I've uploaded have the necessary gcode changes for accomplishing the above on a Prusa Mini. NOTE: THIS MEANS THE BLUE TEXT PROJECT FILE AND GCODE WILL LEAVE YOUR HEATERS ON AT THE END OF THE PRINT AND YOU SHOULD IMMEDIATELY PRINT THE GREY FILE AFTERWARDS! If you're at all uncomfortable with this or do not fully understand this process then you should use the standard single color and glue the text to the frame with superglue.
The Blue 3MF project file has two versions of the text model in it. One has zero clearance around the text, the other has 0.1mm of clearance on all sides. I recommend using the 0.1mm clearance model to avoid color bleeding.
The build in the photos is the Print-on-Print version with these filaments:
The author remixed this model.
The Frame contains the following changes from the original display box STL:
The buttons, text, and encoder knob are all original.