Meshtastic 5W Solar Enclosure Base Station LoRa Node for 5 Watt and LTO Lithium Titanate Oxide Battery

Update September 2nd, 2024

• Added taller enclosure: “Enclosure-4x-LTO-v1.3”. It's 65mm tall and only includes mounting holes for the BattRAK x4 LTO.
• Added BattRAK x4 LTO. It holds 4 HTC2265 cells. These files are a duplicate of the files on the dedicated listing for the BattRAK.
• Updated Hinge so the geared wings are stronger.

Update June 5th, 2023

• The enclosure assembly is ready to use. It functions great mechanically and for water resistance. However, you probably don't have the LTO charger board. I'm working on the next version of that board and hope to have it available soon.

Update Jan 27th, 2023

• Updated Enclosure to v1.3
• Updated the LTO Charger Bracket RAK19003 Sled to v1.1
• Added Carrier v1.0 (so you can use the enclosure without the LTO battery/charger)

Print List

• (1) Enclosure
• (1) Bracket for Enclosure
• (1) Hinge
• (1) Lid
• (1) LTO Charger Bracket RAK19007 Standard
• (1) LTO Charger Bracket RAK19007 Offset
• (1) Optional – LTO Charger Bracket RAK19003 Sled (if using the RAK RAK19003)
• (1) Battery Holder
• (4) Top Nut holders
• (2) Side Nut holders

Parts List

• 5 Watt solar panel
• RAK19007 Starter Kit (a RAK19003 could work instead)
• 1/4" by 3 1/2" bolt
• 2x 1/4" washers
• 1/4" locking nut
• 8x M5x16 screws
• 8x M5 locking nuts
• 16 M5 washers (10mm diameter, no larger)
• 14x M3x10 screws
• 14x M3 brass threaded insert (M3x5.0x6.0)
• 4x M2.5x4 screws
• 4x M2.5x6 screws
• DPST Rocker Switch (4 pin)
• Rocker Switch Silicone Cover
• JST-PH 2.0 male end with crimper tool (can solder an end on)
• 2x pair of JST-PH 2.0 male and female cables
• JST 1.5mm (for connecting to RAK solar input)
• Various sizes shrink tubing
• U.FL/IPEX to N-Type female pigtail OR U.FL/IPEX to SMA pigtail
• Silicone rubber gasket (custom)
• Full sheet of 220 grit sand paper
• Z-bracket
• U-bolt clamp
• PG7 cable gland
• 4.5Ah LTO battery
• LTO Charger Board (coming soon)

Assembly

1. Prepare the enclosure first. Install the 14 M3 heated inserts into the enclosure. Try to keep them upright and get them as flush as possible. For ASA, I set my soldering iron to 270C.
   1. Refer to this video (ignore the 250C temp, 270C is better for ASA): https://imgur.com/a/AIfxFGb
2. Place a full sheet of 220 grit sandpaper onto a flat surface. Sand the top edge of the Enclosure to remove any ridges from 3D printing and to file down any inserts that are too high. Use this same process on the Lid. Clean both (a can of air is helpful here).
   1. Refer to this video (it shows a different enclosure but it's the same process): https://imgur.com/a/WRl3HG4
3. Solder the JST wires to the switch and use heat shrink tubing to cover the four metal prongs. Add the silicon switch cover. Set aside.
4. Place the solar panel face down on a flat surface, you don't want it generating power (consider using a towel to protect the solar panel). The little black box on the solar panel should be at the top and wire should be pointing down. Cut the solar panel wire to 1' then crimp or solder a male JST 2.0 connector onto the end. Optionally apply heat shrink tubing to the wire just below the JST connector (slide the heat shrink tubing over the wire before attaching the JST connector).
5. Assemble all six nut holders by placing a locking nut into each. Then slide a washer in to hold the nut in place. Some force may be required to insert the washers all the way. The narrow part of the locking nut should face down, the wider part of the nut should face the washer.
6. Use two M5 screws and washers to attach the two Side Nut holders to the left and right side of the bracket. Hand tighten these for now.
7. Slide three Top Nut holders under the three holes at the top of the solar panel (closest to the little black box). They will just sit under the lip directly under those three holes. Don't jostle the solar panel otherwise they might slide around.
8. Place the Bracket on the solar panel so the side nuts go under the aluminum frame. You'll need to turn the bracket at an angle and then turn it back. Make sure the Side Nut holders are facing the outer edge of the solar panel frame. The longer narrow end of the Side Nut holder should sit against the aluminum frame. This is important when you go to tighten the screws.
9. Place three M5 screws with washers through the three holes in the Bracket and hand tighten them into the Top Nut holders that you placed under the frame.
10. Tighten all five screws into nut holders but do not tighten them all the way. Just take up most of the slack in the screws. You may need to reverse direction every once and awhile when screwing these in to ensure the holders are aligned correctly.
11. Take the final Top Nut holder and place it under the middle hole at the bottom of the solar panel (yeah yeah, I know).
12. Install the Enclosure so the little wings align with the wings on the Bracket. Then use an M5 screw and washer on the bottom hole. Hand tighten only.
13. Use two M5 screws, four washers and two locking nuts to connect the Enclosure to the Bracket (through the little wings). Ensure these two parts are aligned and then tighten these down.
14. Go back to each of the nut holders and tighten them all while keeping the assembled parts centered to the solar panel frame.
15. Prepare the Z-bracket. Use the U-bolt flat bracket as a template against the z-bracket. Use a pencil to trace the holes from the flat bracket onto the z-bracket. Drill two holes at 5/16" (this should be on the side with one existing hole). See photo for reference. If you are building a lot of these, ask me about a drill jig that properly aligns these holes.
16. Attach the Z bracket to the Hinge using four M5 screws, eight washers and four locking nuts. Tighten these down. This must be done before attaching the Hinge to the Bracket. See photo for reference.
17. Carefully slide the Hinge onto the Bracket. You may need to apply a SMALL amount of outward pressure against the wings of the Hinge. The Bracket must be installed on the solar panel before attaching the Hinge (otherwise you can't get to the screw under the Hinge). Place the long bolt and washer through both the Bracket and Hinge. Add the other washer and hand tighten the locking nut.
18. Carefully rotate the Hinge until the solar panel and the flat side of the Hinge are at the correct angle for collecting the most energy for your region. Tighten the Hinge bolt/nut.
19. Install the switch, antenna pigtail and cable gland into the Enclosure.
20. Thread the solar panel cable through the cable gland and tighten it down all the way.
21. Install the Battery Holder with four M2.5 screws. The JST wires should be facing toward the ports (cable gland, etc).
22. Attach the LTO Charger Brackets to the RAK19007 using four M2.5 screws (the black ones that came with the board).
23. Set the MPPT voltage level on the charger using the two jumpers at MPPT. If using the solar panel from the parts list, set both jumpers to 12v.
24. Place the charger in the Enclosure over the holes in the bottom. Carefully place the assembled RAK19007 with brackets over the holes of the charger. We're stacking these. Consider using tweezers to hold the screw on the end of your screwdriver while lowering the screw into place. Use four M2.5x6 screws to attach the charger and RAK19007 onto the Enclosure.
25. Ensure the switch is in the off position.
26. Attach all the wires to the appropriate places (refer to the crude photo diagram).
    1. Plug the solar panel wire into one leg of the switch. Plug the other side of that leg into the charger board at VIN.
    2. Plug the battery into the other leg of the switch. Plug the other side of that leg into the charger board at BATT.
    3. Use a jumper cable with a male JST 2.0 and a male JST 1.5. Plug the RAK board into the charger at VOUT.
    4. Attach the antenna pigtail to the LoRa U.FL/IPEX connector on the RAK base board. 
    5. Attach the BLE antenna to the RAK base board. Use the adhesive back on the antenna to secure somewhere in the enclosure.
27. Test it. Attach an antenna then turn the switch on. The RAK node should boot up and blink some lights.
28. Switch it off and remove the antenna.
29. Align the gasket and install the Lid using 14 M3 screws.
30. Grab a snack, you're done!