Adjustable Turning Desk Light

I wanted to have a desk light I could easily turn around and I didn't fancy buying one. I'm a maker, by Jove, I make things! In his 3d printer enclosure video, Jonathan from the Next Layer mentioned these cheap LED lights on Ali Express, which sparked the idea to design my own light and now you can too!

Bill of Materials

Since I'm from the Netherlands, some of these links might not work for you, but most components should be easily sourced locally.

• LED panel - https://aliexpress.com/item/32800234629.html
• 608 bearing - https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/10st-8x22x7mm-deep-groove-miniatuur-bearing-seal-ring-608-2rs-608rs-deep-groove-ball-bearing/9200000123351506/ 
• 4x M5 x 30mm bolt - https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-slotbout-m5-x-30-mm-verzinkt-8-stuks/p/B458186
• 4x M3 screws - had some lying around
• 4x M5 wingnuts - https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-vleugelmoer-m5-verzinkt-4-stuks/p/B458306
• 12V DC Power cable - https://www.reichelt.de/nl/nl/stekkernetvoeding-20-w-12-v-1-67-a-verwisselbare-stekker-psaa-20r-120a-p298335.html
• 12V DC Plug - https://www.reichelt.de/nl/nl/dc-bus-platte-contacten-pen-2-1mm-dc-bu21-90-p183502.html
• 1 or 2m of 22AWG Stranded Wire - https://www.okaphone.com/artikel.asp?id=417180
• Switch (optional) - salvaged from https://www.action.com/nl-nl/p/jute-touw-met-ledverlichting/

Adding an adjustable resistor for dimming purposes might be good, since the panel is extremely bright. More than bright enough to light up my entire workbench.

Models

All models are exported as .3mf, with a few STL's. Those STLs are pre-orientated versions of the .3mf files, meaning you can pick which file to use. You can print as many arms as you need, but you need to have at least an odd number of arms, since both the base and the light holding bit have male connectors, so need to be attached to a female arm. If you want an even number of arms, the STEP and F3D files are included. They are a bit of a mess though, I'm sorry.

Instructions

Once you've got all the components, it's really just a matter of connecting the parts together. I would recommend soldering the wires to the LED panel first, since they're a tad finicky to solder and being able to lay them flat on the table really helps. 

Another part that might not be clear, is which pin on the connector connects to the positive lead and which to the negative. There should be a polarity symbol printed on your power cable. To decypher them, I used this link https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polarity_symbols. You can use a multimeter to check which pin connects to the center.

The base is hold to the table with screws, since it will tip over otherwise. Predrilling the holes with a M2 drill makes this a lot easier.

License

CC-0, attribution is appreciated, not required. If you sell this model without any changes from your side, you're a dickhead, but you do you dickhead!